
Chef Thomas
A Ploughman's Salad
The old pub ploughman's, shaken loose from its board and laid across butter lettuce with a sharp mustard dressing, for the kind of lunch that feels like you've given yourself the afternoon off.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A salad of shaved Brussels sprouts, young kale, and peppery watercress, dressed sharply with lemon and scattered with toasted almonds. Green and bright and alive when everything outside has stopped.
January. The garden is bare and the light goes at four o'clock. The market stalls are stacked with roots and brassicas and not much else. This is when you need a salad most, not the pale, apologetic sort that comes in a plastic bag, but something with backbone. Something green and raw and sharp enough to remind you that the year is still turning.
Brussels sprouts, shaved thin and separated into pale, delicate leaves, are a different thing entirely from the boiled specimens of Christmas memory. Raw, they're nutty and crisp and almost sweet. Mixed with young kale and a handful of peppery watercress, dressed with lemon and good olive oil, scattered with almonds toasted until they smell like warm marzipan, this becomes the kind of salad that earns its place at the centre of the table. Not beside something. Not underneath something. The thing itself.
I make this through the cold months whenever the sprouts at the market are tight and small and look like they've come off the stalk that morning. It's the sort of dish I write down in the notebook with a single line: green salad, January, sharp and good. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. Use what you've got, adjust the dressing to your taste, and eat it before the leaves lose their nerve.
Quantity
150g
tough stems removed, leaves torn
Quantity
100g
thick stems trimmed
Quantity
200g
outer leaves removed
Quantity
50g
Quantity
1
juiced
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small clove
crushed to a paste with salt
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
30g
shaved
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| young kaletough stems removed, leaves torn | 150g |
| watercressthick stems trimmed | 100g |
| Brussels sproutsouter leaves removed | 200g |
| flaked almonds | 50g |
| lemonjuiced | 1 |
| good olive oil | 4 tablespoons |
| garliccrushed to a paste with salt | 1 small clove |
| Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| Parmesan or hard cheese (optional)shaved | 30g |
Trim the base of each sprout and peel away any tired outer leaves. Now shave them as finely as you can. A sharp knife and a steady hand will do, or a mandoline if you have one and trust yourself with it. What you want are thin, pale ribbons that will separate into individual leaves when you toss them. Drop them into a bowl of cold water for a minute. They'll crisp up and the loose leaves will fan out. Drain and dry them well. Wet leaves won't take a dressing.
Strip the kale leaves from their stems. If you've got the young, tender sort, just tear the leaves roughly. If they're tougher, slice them into thin ribbons and give them a gentle massage with a pinch of salt and a few drops of olive oil. Sounds odd. Works. Thirty seconds of rubbing between your fingers and the leaves go from stiff and squeaky to silky and dark. You'll feel the moment they yield.
Scatter the flaked almonds into a dry frying pan over a medium heat. Stay close. They go from pale to golden in about two minutes, and from golden to burnt in about ten seconds. Shake the pan now and then. When they smell warm and toasty and have taken on a light tan, tip them onto a plate immediately. They'll carry on cooking in the hot pan if you leave them, and then you'll be starting again.
Crush the garlic to a paste with a pinch of sea salt on your chopping board, using the flat of a knife. Scrape it into a small bowl or jar. Add the lemon juice and the mustard, stir, then pour in the olive oil. Whisk it together, or put the lid on the jar and shake it. Taste it. The dressing should be sharp and bright, enough to stand up to the bitterness of the leaves. If it needs more lemon, more lemon. More salt, more salt. Season and taste. Then taste again.
Put the shaved sprouts, kale, and watercress into a wide bowl. Pour over the dressing and use your hands to turn everything through, gently, making sure the leaves are coated but not crushed. The watercress is fragile, so it goes in last and gets the lightest touch. Scatter the toasted almonds over the top. Shave over some Parmesan if you like, though it's not essential. Carry it to the table while the almonds are still warm and the leaves still have their spine. This is a salad that doesn't wait politely.
1 serving (about 155g)
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