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Black Bean Tostadas with Pickled Onion
Crisp corn tostadas piled with velvety black beans, their earthiness cut by the sharp brightness of quick-pickled red onions, finished with crumbled queso fresco and torn cilantro leaves.
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Market mushrooms seared golden and fragrant with thyme and garlic, piled high on grilled country bread with bubbling Gruyere, the kind of simple supper that makes autumn feel like a gift.
Start with the mushrooms. This is where everything lives or dies. Seek out what your market or forager offers: chanterelles with their apricot perfume, hen of the woods with meaty density, or even good cremini if that is what you find. What matters is that they were picked recently enough to smell like the forest floor, earthy and alive.
A tartine is the French answer to the open-faced sandwich, but calling it that misses the point. It is a vehicle for whatever is best right now, piled onto bread that can hold its weight without collapsing. In cooler months, when the woods and farms yield their mushrooms, this is what I want for supper.
The technique is almost nothing. Sear the mushrooms until they give up their water and turn golden. Add garlic and thyme at the end so they stay fragrant instead of bitter. Melt good Gruyere over the top until it bubbles and browns. Let things taste of what they are.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. When you buy mushrooms from someone who foraged them or a farmer who grows them with care, you are keeping that connection alive. The tartine will taste better for it. I promise you this.
Quantity
1 pound
cleaned and torn into bite-sized pieces
Quantity
4 thick slices
Quantity
3 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
3 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
4 ounces
coarsely grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
Quantity
small handful
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed wild mushroomscleaned and torn into bite-sized pieces | 1 pound |
| rustic country bread | 4 thick slices |
| unsalted butterdivided | 3 tablespoons |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling |
| garlicthinly sliced | 3 cloves |
| fresh thyme leaves | 1 tablespoon |
| dry white wine or dry sherry | 1/4 cup |
| Gruyere cheesecoarsely grated | 4 ounces |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | small handful |
Tear the mushrooms by hand into irregular, bite-sized pieces. Do not slice them with a knife if you can help it. Torn edges caramelize better and catch more of the butter. Brush away any dirt with a dry cloth or soft brush. Never soak wild mushrooms. They absorb water like sponges and will steam instead of sear.
Heat a large skillet, cast iron if you have it, over medium-high heat. Add one tablespoon of butter and one tablespoon of olive oil. When the butter foams and the foam subsides, add the mushrooms in a single layer. Here is the hard part: leave them alone. Let them sear undisturbed for three to four minutes until golden underneath. Stir, then cook another two to three minutes. They should smell deeply earthy and look bronzed at the edges.
Push the mushrooms to the edges of the pan. Add another tablespoon of butter to the center and let it melt. Add the sliced garlic and thyme, stirring them in the butter for thirty seconds until fragrant. The garlic should soften but not brown. Toss everything together.
Pour in the wine. It will sizzle and steam. Scrape up any brown bits stuck to the pan. These are flavor. Let the wine cook down until nearly evaporated, about one minute. Season with flaky salt and pepper. Taste. The mushrooms should be deeply savory. Remove from heat.
Position a rack six inches from your broiler and turn it to high. Brush both sides of the bread slices with the remaining olive oil. Arrange on a sheet pan and broil until golden and crisp on top, about two minutes. Flip and toast the other side. Watch carefully. Broilers are unpredictable. Rub one side of each warm toast lightly with a halved garlic clove if you want more depth.
Pile the warm mushrooms generously onto each toast, letting them mound in the center. Scatter the grated Gruyere over the top. Return the tartines to the broiler for one to two minutes, watching constantly, until the cheese melts, bubbles, and turns golden brown in spots. The edges should look lacy and slightly crisp.
Transfer the tartines to plates. Scatter the parsley over the top. Add a drizzle of your best olive oil and a few flakes of sea salt. Serve immediately while the cheese is still molten and the bread still has its crunch. A tartine waits for no one.
1 serving (about 250g)
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