
Chef Klaus
Bayerischer Wurstsalat
The Bavarian beer-garden salad that lives by the cut: thin sausage strips, raw onion, vinegar and oil, no cheese, rested long enough to taste like supper.
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The Munich sausage that usually stops at the noon bell gets a second life cold: peeled, sliced, and dressed sharp enough to wake the veal without bullying it.
Weißwurstsalat belongs to Bavaria after the morning rule has already been broken. Weißwurst is Munich food, tied to the second breakfast, the Weißwurstfrühstück, with sweet mustard, a Breze, and a wheat beer if the day allows it. The old rule says the sausage shouldn't hear the noon bell. Fine. Then the cooked ones left from the morning become salad. Weggeworfen wird nichts.
The regions don't agree on sausage salad, and they shouldn't. In Swabia and Baden, Wurstsalat often means Lyoner or Regensburger cut into strips, sharper vinegar, sometimes cheese near the Swiss border. In Munich I keep the Bavarian centre: peeled Weißwurst, sweet mustard in the dressing, onion, chives, radish, no cheese. Das ist kein Bierzelt. It's a Brotzeit, the bread-time snack table, made properly.
The make-or-break is simple: peel the sausages cold and soften the onion in vinegar before it touches the veal. The casing is fine in the morning water, but cold it turns rubbery and blocks the dressing. Raw onion thrown straight in will bully the mild sausage; ten minutes in vinegar takes off the burn and gives the dressing its first seasoning. Then fold, don't mash. This is a salad, not mortar.
Serve it cold, not refrigerator-dead, with a torn Breze and more sweet mustard at the side. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss. Taste before you salt, because the sausage and mustard have already spoken.
Munich tradition dates Weißwurst to 22 February 1857 at the inn Zum Ewigen Licht on Marienplatz, where butcher-innkeeper Sepp Moser is said to have used pork casings for a veal sausage when sheep casings ran out. The rule that a Weißwurst should not hear the noon bell belongs to the pre-refrigeration sale of fresh Brühwurst, a scalded sausage, made in the morning and eaten quickly. Weißwurstsalat puts the cooled sausage into the southern German Wurstsalat family, where Bavaria keeps sweet mustard and Breze close while Swabia, Baden, and the Swiss border argue for Lyoner, Regensburger, sharper vinegar, or cheese.
Quantity
6
chilled
Quantity
1 small
sliced paper-thin
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
6 radishes or 150g Rettich
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 small bunch
cut into short batons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
only if needed
Quantity
4
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cooked Weißwürstechilled | 6 |
| red onionsliced paper-thin | 1 small |
| white wine vinegar or mild beer vinegar | 3 tablespoons |
| sweet Bavarian mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| medium-hot German mustard (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| cold sausage poaching liquid or cold water | 2 tablespoons |
| rapeseed oil or sunflower oil | 4 tablespoons |
| radishes or Rettich (white beer radish)thinly sliced | 6 radishes or 150g Rettich |
| chivescut into short batons | 1 small bunch |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| fine salt | only if needed |
| Brezento serve | 4 |
Start with cooked, chilled Weißwürste. Cut a shallow slit lengthwise through each casing and peel it away, then slice the sausage into 1cm coins on a slight angle. Cold sausage cuts clean and keeps its fat inside; warm sausage tears, smears, and makes the dressing cloudy before you've even begun.
Put the sliced onion in a mixing bowl with the vinegar and a small pinch of salt, then leave it for 10 minutes. The vinegar pulls out the raw onion burn and turns the onion juice into part of the dressing. Skip this and the salad tastes of onion first and Weißwurst second.
Stir the sweet mustard and the medium-hot mustard, if using, into the onion and vinegar until smooth, then whisk in the cold poaching liquid or water. Add the oil in a thin stream and whisk until the dressing looks glossy and loose. The water keeps the mustard from clumping around the sausage; the oil carries the mild veal flavour instead of covering it. Grind in black pepper, but hold the salt for the end.
Add the sliced Weißwurst and radishes to the bowl and fold gently with a broad spoon until every piece has a light coat of dressing. Don't stir hard. The sausage is tender and already cooked, and rough mixing breaks the slices into paste at the edges. Leave the salad 15 minutes so the dressing settles into the cut surfaces.
Fold in the chives at the last minute so they stay green and sharp, then taste. Add salt only if the sausage and mustard haven't done enough. Serve cold, but not ice-cold, with torn Brezen and extra sweet mustard on the side. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
1 serving (about 285g)
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