Watercress with Radishes and Brown Butter

Watercress is one of the first signs of spring at the market. It appears in bunches still dripping with cold water, smelling of pepper and iron and the stream bank where it grew. When the leaves are this alive, you need almost nothing else.

Brown butter is the exception to my rule about getting out of the way. Here it adds warmth and depth without masking anything. The milk solids toast to a nutty gold, and when you pour that over cold, peppery greens, something wonderful happens. The watercress softens just slightly at the edges while staying crisp at heart. The radishes snap against your teeth.

This is a salad that must be dressed moments before serving. The warm butter meeting the cold greens is the whole point. Set everything in place, brown your butter, and call your guests to the table before you finish. Every meal is a meaningful choice, and this one asks you to be present for the thirty seconds when the dish comes together.