Wakame Udon (わかめうどん)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide pot for dashi
• •Fine-mesh strainer lined with a clean cloth or paper towel
• •Separate pot for cooking udon
• •Deep donburi bowls

Instructions

1. 1

   Steep the konbu

   Wipe the konbu with a damp cloth, but don't wash it. Put it in the cold water and bring it up slowly over low heat, about ten minutes. Pull the konbu when the water trembles and small bubbles climb the sides of the pot. Boiling the kelp makes the dashi taste bitter and a little slick, so this quiet step protects the clarity.

2. 2

   Add the flakes

   Bring the water to a gentle boil, add the katsuobushi all at once, and take the pot off the heat. Let the flakes sink on their own for two or three minutes. Don't stir. The flakes give up their aroma cleanly when left alone.

3. 3

   Strain the dashi

   Strain the dashi through a fine-mesh strainer lined with a clean cloth or paper towel. Let it drip naturally and don't squeeze the flakes. Squeezing pushes strong, oily flavors into the stock, and this bowl wants a clear broth, not a bullied one.

4. 4

   Prepare the wakame

   Soak the dried wakame in cool water for five minutes, until it opens and turns green. Drain it, rinse it briefly, and squeeze it gently dry. Rehydrating it separately keeps excess salt and sea grit out of the broth, which is a small kindness to both the stock and the cook.

5. 5

   Season the broth

   Return the dashi to the pot and add the soy sauce, mirin, and salt. Warm it just below a boil and taste. It should be clear, savory, and slightly stronger than you think, because the udon will soften the seasoning once it enters the bowl.

6. 6

   Cook the udon

   Cook the udon in a separate pot of boiling water according to the package directions, usually one to two minutes for frozen noodles and a little longer for fresh. Drain well. Cooking the noodles separately keeps extra starch from clouding the dashi, and clear broth is half the dignity of this bowl.

7. 7

   Assemble the bowls

   Divide the udon between two warm bowls. Ladle the hot broth over the noodles, then add the wakame and sliced scallion. The wakame needs only the warmth of the broth. Finish with a pinch of shichimi tōgarashi if you like, but lightly. Nothing hidden.

Chef Tips

• •Frozen udon is often the best weeknight choice. It has a pleasant spring and cooks quickly, while many dried udon noodles turn soft before they turn satisfying.
• •Don't add dried wakame straight to the soup. It expands more than a nervous cook expects, and it brings salt with it. Soak, rinse, squeeze, then warm it at the end.
• •For a meatless table, make the dashi with konbu and dried shiitake. Soak 1 piece konbu and 2 dried shiitake in 4 cups cold water overnight, then warm gently and strain. That's temple-kitchen honmono, not a compromise.
• •Use light hands with the soy sauce. If the broth tastes thin, it needs better dashi, not more salt.

Advance Preparation

• •The dashi can be made up to two days ahead and kept refrigerated. Reheat it gently, then season it just before serving.
• •The konbu can soak overnight in the measured cold water for a rounder stock and a faster start.
• •Slice the scallions ahead and keep them covered in the refrigerator for a day. Rehydrate the wakame only shortly before serving so it keeps its color and texture.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 520g)