
Chef Klaus
Badische Dinnele
The Baden flatbread that keeps its bread body: sour cream, onion, and Speck on a yeast dough baked hard and hot until the edges blister.
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The weekday wholemeal roll works when the bran is soaked before it meets the dough, so the crumb bakes moist instead of dry and sandy.
Vollkornbrötchen sit on the weekday German table: breakfast with butter and jam, Abendbrot with cheese, ham, radish, or a boiled egg. They aren't feast bread. They're the roll you buy from the baker on the way to work, and the one worth making at home because a good one keeps you fed without noise.
By German rule, a Vollkorn bread or roll is built from at least ninety percent whole grain. The north leans darker, with rye meal and sourness; the south and west often make the roll lighter with whole wheat or spelt and a seed crust. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. Same idea, different flour bin.
The soaker decides whether this works. Wholegrain flour carries bran, and dry bran cuts through dough like little knives while stealing water from the crumb. So I pour boiling water over cracked grain, seeds, and oats the night before, then leave them to swell. In the morning the dough feels wetter than a white roll dough, and that's correct. If it feels neat and tidy now, it will eat dry later.
Bake them dark enough. Whole grain needs colour to taste nutty, not dusty. Let them cool before you split one, because a hot wholemeal crumb is still setting and tears if you rush it. Das braucht seine Zeit.
Germany's modern bread regulations define Vollkorn bread and rolls as products whose grain ingredients are at least ninety percent wholegrain flour, meal, or flakes, which is why the word carries a legal weight there that it often lacks elsewhere. Whole rye and mixed-grain breads were especially strong in northern and central Germany, where rye grew more reliably than wheat in poorer soils and cooler weather. The small roll version belongs to the twentieth-century bakery counter and the everyday Frühstück and Abendbrot table, a portable form of the older wholegrain bread culture.
Quantity
120g
Quantity
50g
Quantity
30g
Quantity
30g
Quantity
240g
Quantity
11g
Quantity
300g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
100g
Quantity
7g instant / 21g fresh
Quantity
240g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
30g
for topping
Quantity
30g
for topping
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cracked rye or coarse whole rye meal | 120g |
| sunflower seeds | 50g |
| linseeds | 30g |
| rolled oats | 30g |
| boiling water | 240g |
| fine salt | 11g |
| whole wheat flour | 300g |
| whole spelt flour | 150g |
| whole rye flour | 100g |
| instant yeast or fresh yeast | 7g instant / 21g fresh |
| lukewarm water | 240g |
| dark beet syrup or honey | 20g |
| rapeseed oil | 20g |
| pumpkin seedsfor topping | 30g |
| sesame seedsfor topping | 30g |
Mix the cracked rye, sunflower seeds, linseeds, oats, boiling water, and salt in a bowl, then cover it and leave it overnight at room temperature. The boiling water swells the bran and seeds before they enter the dough, so they don't steal water from the crumb during baking. This is the difference between moist Vollkornbrötchen and a roll that eats like sawdust.
In the morning, mix the whole wheat, spelt, rye flour, yeast, lukewarm water, beet syrup, oil, and the whole soaker until no dry flour remains. Knead 6 to 8 minutes by machine or about 10 minutes by hand. The dough should be tacky and a little heavy, not stiff; whole grain needs more water because the bran keeps drinking long after mixing.
Cover the dough and leave it 45 minutes, then fold it over itself four times in the bowl. Rest another 30 to 45 minutes, until it looks slightly puffed. The rest lets the flour finish taking up water, and the fold gives structure without forcing a tight white-bread dough out of whole grain.
Turn the dough onto a lightly wet worktop, divide it into 10 pieces of about 105g each, and shape each into a tight round or short oval. Use wet hands instead of extra flour, because loose flour dries the crust and leaves pale patches. Dip the tops in pumpkin and sesame seeds, pressing gently so they hold.
Set the rolls on a lined baking sheet, cover them, and let them rise 35 to 50 minutes, until they feel lighter and a fingertip dent fills back slowly. Don't wait for them to double like pale wheat rolls. Wholegrain dough carries more bran and less open gluten, so it rises more modestly and then finishes in the oven.
Heat the oven to 230C with a tray on the lower shelf. Slash each roll once, slide them in, and pour a cup of hot water into the lower tray, then close the door. Bake 10 minutes, reduce to 210C, and bake 10 to 12 minutes more, until the crust is deep brown and the bases sound hollow. Runter mit der Temperatur after the first blast: the heat sets the crust, then the lower heat cooks the dense crumb through.
Move the rolls to a rack and leave them at least 30 minutes before splitting. The crumb is still setting when they come out, and cutting too soon tears it gummy. Eat them with butter, cheese, smoked ham, or jam. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
1 serving (about 115g)
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