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Created by Chef Lupita
Veracruz's Gulf-coast stock, built from white fish bones, shrimp shells, epazote, garlic, and bay leaf, the quiet foundation behind arroz a la tumbada, chilpachole, and every serious jarocho caldo.
Veracruz lives on the Gulf, and this fumet belongs to the port, Alvarado, Boca del Rio, Tlacotalpan, and every kitchen where fish bones are not trash. They are the beginning of the next pot. Arroz a la tumbada does not start with rice. Chilpachole does not start with crab. They start here, with bones, shrimp shells, garlic, bay leaf, and epazote.
This is not a chile-heavy stock. Listen carefully. Not all Mexican food is built to burn your mouth. Veracruz cooking carries the Gulf, the Spanish ships, the olives, the capers, the vinegar sauces, and the seafood vendors who know which fish came in before sunrise. The defining herb here is epazote, not because it is fashionable, but because it cuts through the sweetness of shellfish and gives the broth that jarocho green edge.
I learned this kind of stock from women who kept a pot going behind the seafood counter, saving shrimp heads in a bowl and fish frames wrapped in newspaper. They would laugh at anyone buying boxed seafood broth. No me vengas con atajos. If you know the market, the vendor gives you the bones. If you don't know the market, you pay too much for less flavor.
Use clean white fish bones, not oily fish. Use shrimp heads if you can get them. Simmer gently and stop before the broth turns bitter. This is foundation work. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Quantity
2 pounds
preferably robalo, huachinango, pargo, or mojarra, gills removed and rinsed well
Quantity
1 pound
rinsed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| white fish bones and headspreferably robalo, huachinango, pargo, or mojarra, gills removed and rinsed well | 2 pounds |
| raw shrimp shells and headsrinsed | 1 pound |
| olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
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