Tsaitia Lakonias (Τσαΐτια Λακωνίας)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •long thin rolling pin (verga) or a 40cm rolling pin
• •wide heavy frying pan, 28 to 30cm
• •clean kitchen towel for squeezing greens
• •wire rack set over a tray

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the dough

   Mix the flour with 5g of the salt in a wide bowl. Add the olive oil and vinegar, rub them through the flour with your fingers, then pour in the lukewarm water gradually until you have a soft dough that is barely tacky. Knead 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Cover and rest for 45 minutes, because thin dough rolls kindly only after it has relaxed.

   If the dough feels dry after kneading, wet your hands and knead again. Don't flood it with water at the end.
2. 2

   Wash the greens

   Wash the horta in two or three changes of water, lifting the leaves out each time so grit stays behind. Strip away tough stems, chop the greens roughly, and keep the fennel, dill, and mint separate for now. Those tender herbs go in after cooking so they stay green and bright.

3. 3

   Dry the filling

   Warm the 30ml olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the leek, spring onions, and the remaining 3g salt, and cook for 4 minutes until glossy and softened. Add the chopped greens by handfuls and turn them just until they collapse, 4 to 6 minutes. Tip everything into a sieve, cool for 10 minutes, then twist the greens in a clean towel until no water runs. This is the step that decides tsaitia: wet horta makes the thin dough spit oil and go leathery; dry horta lets it blister and stay crisp. Fold in the fennel, dill, mint, black pepper, and the optional cheese if using.

   If you use feta, taste before adding any extra salt. Feta speaks loudly in a small roll.
4. 4

   Roll the sheets

   Divide the rested dough into 18 pieces and keep them covered. On a lightly floured surface, roll one piece into a very thin oval or rectangle, about 18 by 24cm. The dough should be thin enough to see shadow through it, not so thin that it tears when lifted. Put 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons filling in a narrow line near one long edge, fold in the short sides, and roll into a slim parcel. Press the seam gently and set it seam-side down under a towel while you shape the rest.

   If a piece of dough springs back, leave it alone for 10 minutes and roll another one. Fighting dough is how holes happen.
5. 5

   Fry until crisp

   Pour olive oil into a wide heavy pan to come 1cm up the sides and heat over medium-high heat to about 170 to 175C. A scrap of dough should bubble at once and brown slowly, not darken in seconds. Fry 3 or 4 tsaitia at a time, seam-side down first, for 2 to 3 minutes per side until deep golden and blistered. Move them to a wire rack as they finish so the bottoms stay crisp.

6. 6

   Finish and serve

   Serve the tsaitia warm, or at room temperature within an hour. Leave them plain for the clean greens-and-herbs version, or draw a very thin thread of Laconian thyme honey over the top at the table. A puddle of honey hides the horta, and the horta is why we came.

Chef Tips

• •Choose the greens by freshness, not romance. In Laconia that might mean wild fennel, dandelion, sorrel, chard, or tender leek tops. In a city kitchen, spinach mixed with chard or dandelion is honest enough, but look for fennel fronds if you can. That scent belongs here.
• •Use cheese only if your household version does. Fresh myzithra keeps the filling gentle; feta makes it saltier and sharper. During the fast, leave dairy out and don't apologize for it. The nistisimo tsaiti is not a lesser one.
• •Tsaitia are best warm from the pan or within an hour at room temperature. Set them out with olives, sliced tomato in season, or a small glass of cold ouzo. If you use honey, use a thread, not a puddle.

Advance Preparation

• •The dough can be made up to 24 hours ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator. Bring it back toward room temperature for 30 minutes before rolling.
• •The greens filling can be made 1 day ahead and chilled in a covered container. Squeeze it once more before filling the dough.
• •Shape the tsaitia up to 2 hours before frying and keep them covered on a lightly floured tray. Fry close to serving if you want the crisp shell.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 270g)