Trigona Panoramatos (Τρίγωνα Πανοράματος) from Thessaloniki

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •small metal cream-horn cones or cannoli molds
• •pastry bag with wide round tip
• •wire rack set over a rimmed tray
• •pastry brush

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the syrup

   Put the sugar, water, lemon juice, and lemon peel in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 6 minutes until clear and lightly thickened. Take it off the heat and let it cool completely. The shells will go into cold syrup after baking, so don't rush this.

2. 2

   Cook the custard

   Warm the milk with the lemon peel until hot but not boiling, then remove the peel. In a bowl, whisk the eggs, yolk, sugar, semolina, cornstarch, and vanilla until smooth. Pour in the hot milk slowly, whisking all the time, then return everything to the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens and leaves a clean trail on the spoon, 4 to 6 minutes. Beat in the butter, scrape into a shallow dish, cover the surface directly, and chill until cold.

3. 3

   Prepare the phyllo

   Heat the oven to 180C. Lay the phyllo under a barely damp towel so it doesn't dry while you work. Cut the sheets lengthwise into strips about 9cm wide. Brush one strip with butter, lay a second strip over it, brush again, and sprinkle a pinch of breadcrumbs near the first fold. The crumbs are not there for taste. They help keep the inner layers apart so the syruped shell still has bite.

4. 4

   Fold the triangles

   Fold the end of each buttered strip over a small cone mold or your fingers to make a hollow triangle, then keep folding like a flag until you reach the end. The point should be closed and the wide side open for filling. Brush the outside lightly with butter and set the triangles seam-side down on a lined baking tray.

5. 5

   Bake the shells

   Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, turning the tray once, until the phyllo is deep gold and crisp at the edges. Let them stand for 3 minutes, just long enough that they stop hissing on the tray, but don't let them cool fully before syruping.

6. 6

   Dip in syrup

   Dip the warm shells into the cold syrup for 20 to 30 seconds, turning once so the outside drinks evenly. Lift them out, open side down, and drain on a rack set over a tray. Leave them until completely cool and dry to the touch on the outside, at least 45 minutes.

7. 7

   Fill to order

   Whisk the cold custard until smooth, then pipe it generously into the open side of each triangle. Serve within the hour. This is the rule that decides the dish: cold custard goes into cooled syruped shells only when you're ready to eat. Fill them early and the sharp phyllo turns to paste.

Chef Tips

• •Use fresh phyllo if you can find it, or thaw frozen phyllo slowly in the refrigerator. Dry, cracked phyllo will punish you before the oven even gets involved.
• •The custard must be cold before piping. Warm custard melts into the shell and steals the crispness you worked for.
• •Unfilled syruped shells keep at room temperature for 2 days in an airtight tin. Filled trigona are for the same day, preferably the same hour.
• •Serve them with strong Greek coffee. The sweetness needs bitterness beside it, not another sweet thing.

Advance Preparation

• •Make the custard up to 24 hours ahead and keep it covered in the refrigerator.
• •Bake and syrup the phyllo shells up to 2 days ahead, then store them unfilled in an airtight tin at room temperature.
• •Fill only to order, no more than 1 hour before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 115g)