
Chef Klaus
Berlin Currywurst
The Berlin Imbiss counter on a plate: fried sausage cut thick, a tomato curry sauce cooked until glossy, and enough fries or bread to chase every bit.
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The DDR supper of blood and groats, slit from its casing and fried slowly with onion until it turns dark, creamy, and ready for potatoes and kraut.
Tote Oma is East German table food, strongest in Saxony, Thuringia, Brandenburg, and the old DDR canteens where nobody wasted a sausage because the name sounded rough. Grützwurst, blood sausage bound with groats, goes into the pan, not as neat slices but loose, dark, and soft over boiled potatoes with sauerkraut beside it. Das ist kein Bierzelt. It's a working supper.
The regions split on the sausage and the side. In Saxony you see it loose and almost spoonable, with sauerkraut cutting the fat; in Thuringia it may run firmer and more peppery; farther north the groats can be barley or buckwheat and the plate changes with the butcher. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders, and here the east speaks loudest.
The one technique is heat. Slit the sausage, take it out of the casing, and cook it slowly with onion so the fat melts, the groats soften, and the blood darkens into a creamy mass. Rush it over hard heat and the grains scorch before the middle loosens. Add a spoon of potato water if it tightens. That isn't rescue work. That's how the pan tells you it's thirsty.
This is preservation cooking from the slaughter day, blood, trim, groats, onion, kraut from the crock. Weggeworfen wird nichts. Set it down hot, sour cabbage on the side, potatoes underneath, mustard only if your butcher made the sausage mild. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
Tote Oma became widely associated with everyday cooking in the former DDR, especially in Saxony, Thuringia, and Brandenburg, where Grützwurst was cheap, filling, and tied to the older Schlachtfest, the farm slaughter day. Blood sausage with grain belongs to a much older German and central European preservation habit: fresh blood and trim were bound with groats so the animal fed the household beyond the first roast. The blunt name, literally dead grandmother, sits beside other East German nicknames such as Verkehrsunfall, traffic accident, proof that canteen humor was sometimes sharper than the knife.
Quantity
800g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2
finely diced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
150ml
as needed
Quantity
800g
peeled and cut into even pieces
Quantity
600g
Quantity
1
Quantity
4
lightly crushed
Quantity
1
grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Grützwurst or loose German blood sausage with groats | 800g |
| lard or neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| onionsfinely diced | 2 |
| dried marjoram | 1 teaspoon |
| potato cooking water or light pork stockas needed | 150ml |
| floury potatoespeeled and cut into even pieces | 800g |
| sauerkraut | 600g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| juniper berrieslightly crushed | 4 |
| small applegrated | 1 |
| salt and black pepper | to taste |
| German mustard (optional) | to serve |
Put the floury potatoes in salted cold water and bring them up gently, because even pieces cooked from cold soften through without a hard outside and raw centre. Simmer until a knife slides in cleanly, then save a cup of the cooking water before you drain them. That starchy water is what loosens the sausage later without thinning the taste.
Put the sauerkraut in a small pot with the bay leaf, juniper, grated apple, and a splash of water, then simmer it 20 minutes. The apple rounds the acid without turning the cabbage sweet, and the juniper keeps it in the German larder where it belongs. Taste before salting, because kraut brings its own salt to the pot.
Warm the lard in a wide heavy pan and cook the diced onions over medium-low heat until soft and pale gold, about 8 minutes. Don't brown them hard. The sausage is already dark and mineral; the onion is there to sweeten the pan and give the groats somewhere soft to land.
Slit the Grützwurst, squeeze it from the casing into the onions, and break it up with a wooden spoon. Runter mit der Temperatur. Cook it slowly, stirring often, until the fat melts out, the groats swell, and the mass turns dark, glossy, and creamy, 10 to 12 minutes. Hard heat makes it dry and grainy before the centre has loosened.
Stir in the marjoram and enough reserved potato water or light stock to make the sausage spoonable, not soupy. The starch in the water binds with the rendered fat, so the pan turns creamy instead of greasy. Taste at the end, then add pepper and only the salt it needs. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss.
Spoon the dark Grützwurst over the drained potatoes and set the sauerkraut beside it, not buried underneath, so the sour cabbage cuts each bite of rich sausage. Add mustard only if the sausage is mild. A good butcher's Grützwurst already knows what it is doing.
1 serving (about 630g)
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