
Chef Lupita
Burrito de Chicharrón Sonorense
Sonora's working morning burrito: chicharrón de cáscara stewed in chile colorado with diced potato, rolled tight in a paper-thin tortilla sobaquera and eaten standing up at the carreta.
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Sinaloa's meal-sized tostada, a generous heap of cooked shrimp, octopus, and crab in a lime, onion, and tomato dressing piled on a crisp corn tortilla. The Mazatlan beachfront in one hand.
This is from Sinaloa. Specifically from the Pacific coast, from Mazatlan and Culiacan and the marisquerias along the malecon where the boats come in at dawn and the seafood is on the counter by ten in the morning. Sinaloa is Mexico's seafood state. Most of the country's farmed and wild-caught shrimp comes from here. The marisco tradition is not a trend. It is the daily economy of the coast.
A tostada de mariscos in Sinaloa is not the small, dainty thing you find on appetizer menus in other states. It is lunch. One tostada, piled so high the seafood spills over the edges, eaten standing at the counter or at a plastic table set up under a tarp by the water. The seafood is already cooked, shrimp poached briefly, octopus simmered slow, crab picked clean, then dressed in lime, onion, tomato, cilantro, and the trinity that makes this dish unmistakably sinaloense: catsup, Maggi, and salsa inglesa. That combination tells you immediately what coast you are on.
My mother never made these. Sinaloa was not her food. But I went to Mazatlan in my second year of the 32-state project and I sat at a marisqueria called La Puntilla for four hours one afternoon, watching the cook scare the octopus in the boiling pot, lifting it three times before letting it sink. She told me the wine corks her abuela dropped in the water were not superstition. They were technique. I have done it her way ever since.
The seafood has to be good. There is nowhere to hide on a tostada. Si no conoces el mercado, no conoces la cocina.
The Sinaloa coctelero tradition, the marisquerias built around catsup-Maggi-Worcestershire seafood cocktails and tostadas, took its modern form in the mid-20th century as the state's commercial shrimp industry exploded after World War II. Sinaloa accounts for the majority of Mexico's shrimp production, both farmed and wild-caught, and the marisqueria emerged as the casual format that allowed coastal cooks to serve the daily catch without the overhead of a sit-down restaurant. The use of bottled European-style condiments, Maggi (Swiss-German), Worcestershire (English), and ketchup, alongside indigenous ingredients like lime, chile, and cilantro reflects the cosmopolitan port history of Mazatlan, which was a major Pacific trade hub from the 19th century onward.
Quantity
1 pound
peeled and deveined, shells reserved
Quantity
1 pound (about 1.5 pounds with head removed)
Quantity
1/2 pound
picked over for shell
Quantity
1 medium
halved (one half quartered for the octopus pot, one half finely diced)
Quantity
1
halved crosswise
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 tablespoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
2
traditional, dropped into the octopus pot
Quantity
3/4 cup (about 8 to 10 Mexican limes)
Quantity
3 medium
seeded and finely diced
Quantity
1/2 cup
chopped
Quantity
2
stemmed and finely minced
Quantity
1
diced
Quantity
1/4 cup
or 3 tablespoons ketchup mixed with 1 tablespoon Mexican hot sauce
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 medium
diced
Quantity
6
store-bought or homemade
Quantity
for spreading
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| medium raw shrimppeeled and deveined, shells reserved | 1 pound |
| cleaned octopus tentacles | 1 pound (about 1.5 pounds with head removed) |
| lump blue crab meatpicked over for shell | 1/2 pound |
| white onionhalved (one half quartered for the octopus pot, one half finely diced) | 1 medium |
| head of garlichalved crosswise | 1 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| kosher salt | 1 tablespoon, plus more to taste |
| wine corks (optional)traditional, dropped into the octopus pot | 2 |
| fresh lime juice | 3/4 cup (about 8 to 10 Mexican limes) |
| Roma tomatoesseeded and finely diced | 3 medium |
| fresh cilantro leaves and tender stemschopped | 1/2 cup |
| fresh chile serranostemmed and finely minced | 2 |
| ripe Hass avocadodiced | 1 |
| Sinaloa-style cocktail sauce (catsup base)or 3 tablespoons ketchup mixed with 1 tablespoon Mexican hot sauce | 1/4 cup |
| Maggi sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| Worcestershire sauce (salsa inglesa) | 1 tablespoon |
| English cucumberdiced | 1 medium |
| corn tostadasstore-bought or homemade | 6 |
| mayonnaise (optional) | for spreading |
| Salsa Huichol or Valentina (optional) | for serving |
| lime wedges (optional) | for serving |
| sliced avocado (optional) | for serving |
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the quartered onion half, the head of garlic, the bay leaves, the salt, and the wine corks if you are using them. Hold the octopus by the head end and dunk the tentacles into the boiling water three times, lifting them out between each dunk. The tentacles will curl tight. This is the scaring technique they use in the Mazatlan marisquerias and it tenderizes the flesh as it cooks. Now lower the whole octopus into the pot. Reduce to a steady simmer and cook 35 to 40 minutes, until a knife slides into the thickest part of a tentacle without resistance. Pull the octopus out and let it cool before slicing into bite-sized pieces.
While the octopus cools, toss the reserved shrimp shells into the same cooking liquid and let them simmer 5 minutes to build a quick broth. Strain. Return the broth to a gentle simmer, salt it well so it tastes like the sea, and slide the shrimp in. Cook 90 seconds to 2 minutes only, until they just turn opaque and curl loosely. Pull them with a slotted spoon directly into a bowl of ice water. Overcooked shrimp turns rubbery and there is no fixing it. Drain and pat dry. Cut each shrimp into two or three bite-sized pieces.
In a wide glass or ceramic bowl, combine the chopped octopus, the shrimp pieces, and the crab meat. Pour the lime juice over and toss gently. Season with a generous pinch of salt. Let it sit 10 minutes in the refrigerator. The lime is not curing this seafood, everything is already cooked, but it brightens and seasons the meat the way a marinade does. The seafood should taste alive, not pickled.
Add the diced white onion, the diced Roma tomatoes, the cilantro, the minced serrano, and the diced cucumber to the seafood bowl. Stir in the cocktail sauce, Maggi sauce, and Worcestershire. This combination of catsup, Maggi, and salsa inglesa is the Sinaloa signature, the trio that defines a Mazatlan marisqueria coctel. Taste for salt and lime. The mixture should be tangy, slightly sweet from the catsup, savory from the Maggi, with the heat of the chile coming up at the end. Fold in the diced avocado last so it does not break down.
Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise across each crisp tostada. The mayonnaise is the glue. It also keeps the tostada from soaking through too quickly. Mound a generous heap of the seafood mixture on top, enough that it spills over the edges. This is a meal-sized tostada, not an appetizer. In Mazatlan, one tostada de mariscos is lunch.
Top each tostada with a few slices of avocado and a shake of Salsa Huichol or Valentina. Serve with lime wedges on the side. Eat with both hands, standing up if you have to. Tostadas de mariscos do not wait. The crispness of the tortilla against the cold seafood is the whole point. Asi se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 400g)
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