
Chef Lupita
Acambaritas de Acámbaro
Guanajuato's daily bread from Acámbaro, a small glazed roll built on pata, enriched with manteca de cerdo, and baked until the top shines lightly for merienda.
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Tabasco's market tortillita dulce is fresh nixtamal corn masa sweetened with piloncillo and canela, pressed small, then toasted on a comal until the edges brown and the sugar perfumes the kitchen.
Tabasco, especially Villahermosa and the humid lowlands around the Grijalva, has a merienda bread that does not need wheat to prove anything. Tortillita dulce is corn masa made small, sweet, and toasted until the surface freckles on the comal. You buy them by the dozen near the mercado, wrapped in paper or tucked into a woven palm tortillera, still warm enough that the piloncillo smells like caramel.
This is not a northern flour tortilla with sugar thrown at it. Flour tortillas belong to the north. Here the base is maiz nixtamalizado, the same corn that feeds the state in pejelagarto empanadas, tamalitos, pozol, and everyday tortillas. The sweetness comes from piloncillo or coarse cane sugar, the perfume from canela de Ceilan, and the tenderness from manteca de cerdo. La manteca es el sabor. Use oil and the tortillita turns dry and flat.
I learned this style from a woman near the Villahermosa market who cooked them on a blackened comal while her granddaughter folded banana leaves beside her. She did not measure with cups. She pinched the masa and said, 'It should feel like a tortilla that wants to be a cookie, but still remembers it is corn.' That is the lesson. Sweet, yes. Still corn. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Tabasco's sweet corn breads come from the same Mesoamerican corn base that shaped the cooking of the Chontal Maya lowlands, where nixtamalized masa was used for tortillas, tamales, pozol, and small griddled cakes long before wheat became common. Cane sugar and piloncillo entered regional kitchens after the Spanish established sugar production in New Spain, and Tabasco's hot, wet geography made sweetened masa snacks practical for market vendors because they could be cooked quickly on a comal and sold the same day. The tortillita dulce belongs to merienda culture, not dessert culture: a small afternoon bread eaten with pozol, atole, coffee, or chocolate, depending on the household.
Quantity
2 cups
preferably white corn masa from a tortilleria
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely grated if using piloncillo
Quantity
3 tablespoons
softened
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
2 to 4 tablespoons
as needed
Quantity
1
wiped clean and cut into squares, for holding the cooked tortillitas
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh masa de maiz nixtamalizadopreferably white corn masa from a tortilleria | 2 cups |
| piloncillo or coarse cane sugarfinely grated if using piloncillo | 1/2 cup |
| manteca de cerdosoftened | 3 tablespoons |
| canela de Ceilanfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| warm wateras needed | 2 to 4 tablespoons |
| hoja de platano (optional)wiped clean and cut into squares, for holding the cooked tortillitas | 1 |
Put the fresh masa in a wide bowl. Sprinkle in the grated piloncillo, canela de Ceilan, and salt. Work everything together with your fingers until the sugar is evenly scattered through the masa. Do not dump in water yet. First let the masa tell you what it needs.
Add the softened manteca de cerdo and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. The masa should become smooth, lightly glossy, and fragrant with corn and canela. This is not decoration, it is structure. The lard keeps the tortillita tender while the sugar browns on the comal.
Pinch off a walnut-sized piece and flatten it between your palms. If the edges split badly, knead in warm water one tablespoon at a time. If it sticks wetly to your hands, knead in a spoonful of fresh masa. The finished dough should feel like soft tortilla masa, a little richer and heavier from the piloncillo.
Divide the masa into 18 balls, about 1 1/2 tablespoons each. Press each one between plastic in a tortilla press or flatten by hand into rounds about 3 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick. Do not make them paper-thin. A tortillita dulce needs enough body to toast outside and stay tender inside.
Heat a dry cast iron comal over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Medium-low matters because piloncillo burns faster than plain corn masa. If you are cooking over wood embers, push the strongest coals to one side and use the gentler edge of the comal. The surface should toast, not scorch.
Lay 3 or 4 tortillitas on the comal without crowding. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on the first side, until the bottom has small brown freckles and the edges look set. Flip and cook 2 to 3 minutes more. Flip once more for 30 to 45 seconds if the center still feels soft. You want toasted corn, caramelized sugar, and a slight firmness at the rim.
Transfer the tortillitas to a clean cloth-lined basket or onto squares of hoja de platano. Let them rest 5 minutes before eating so the sugar settles and the texture firms. Serve by the stack with pozol, atole, cafe de olla, or Tabasco chocolate. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 33g)
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