
Chef Isabel
Afuega'l Pitu Roxu
Afuega'l Pitu Roxu is Asturias in a small cheese: cow's milk set slowly to a dense curd, drained without squeezing, then kneaded with pimentón until it turns orange and grips the throat.
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Torta del Casar is Extremadura's spoonable sheep cheese, set with wild thistle so the centre softens into a bitter, creamy paste. Cut the top as a lid, warm it gently, and bring bread.
Torta del Casar is Extremadura's spoon cheese, from the country around Casar de Caceres, and its character comes from cardo, the wild thistle that sets the sheep's milk. That thistle leaves a clean bitterness under the cream and makes the paste soften until you don't cut wedges. You open the top like a lid and eat from the centre. This is Extremaduran, not Spain plain and simple.
The method that decides it is temperature. Cold, the cheese is tight and sulky. Too hot, it breaks into oil and you have punished something that only asked to be warmed. Let it lose the chill first, cut the lid neatly, then warm it gently until a spoon goes in with no fight.
No hace falta haber pisado Espana. If you can't find Torta del Casar, look first for Torta de la Serena, its Extremaduran cousin, also set with thistle and eaten by spoon. It is a little cleaner and more bitter, but it belongs to the same family. A very ripe Serra da Estrela will help in a far-away kitchen, though it speaks Portuguese, not Extremaduran. Brie is another thing entirely.
Serve it with good bread and leave it alone. My Margin beside this one says only, not too hot. That is enough warning. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and warm it gently. The rest is bread, a spoon, and people leaning in.
Torta del Casar belongs to Casar de Caceres and the Llanos de Caceres in Extremadura, country of merino and entrefina sheep on the dehesa. Its curd is set with cardo, the dried flower of the wild thistle Cynara cardunculus, whose enzymes make a fragile curd, a faint bitterness, and the flattened round shape that gives the name torta. What once looked like a cheese that would not hold itself became the region's prize: a rind strong enough to carry a centre meant for the spoon.
Quantity
1 whole cheese (600-700g)
unwrapped and tempered
Quantity
350g
sliced 1.5cm thick
Quantity
120g
cut into small pieces
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Torta del Casar DOPunwrapped and tempered | 1 whole cheese (600-700g) |
| rustic country breadsliced 1.5cm thick | 350g |
| membrillo (optional)cut into small pieces | 120g |
Take the Torta del Casar out of the refrigerator 30 to 45 minutes before serving and remove any plastic wrapping. Leave it in its wooden band if it has one, or set it on a small ovenproof plate with a rim. Cold cheese stays stubborn in the centre; tempered cheese warms evenly and gives you the spoonable paste you came for.
With a small sharp knife, cut a circle in the top rind, leaving a 1cm border all around. Angle the knife slightly inward and lift the rind off in one piece, like a lid. Keep that lid for covering leftovers. Do not cut this cheese into wedges; you would lose the whole point of it onto the board.
Heat the oven to 80C. Set the opened cheese on its plate and warm it for 6 to 8 minutes, just until the centre turns glossy and moves softly when you touch the plate. If you have a thermometer, the paste should be about 28C to 32C, no hotter. This is the method that decides it: warm enough to relax the paste, not so hot that the fat separates and pools. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
While the cheese warms, toast the bread lightly so the cut faces are dry and crisp but the middle still has chew. Torta del Casar needs bread with a bit of backbone; thin crackers snap and leave you chasing cheese across the plate.
Set the cheese in the middle of the table with the bread around it and a small spoon tucked into the centre. Spoon the creamy paste onto bread, or dip the bread straight in if the table is friendly. Add membrillo on the side if you like that sweet edge against the thistle bitterness. No herbs, no garlic oil, no little performance. The cheese already did the work.
1 serving (about 155g)
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