Torrone di Cremona

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Stand mixer with whisk attachment
• •Two heavy-bottomed saucepans
• •Candy thermometer (essential, not optional)
• •8x12-inch baking pan
• •Wooden spoon
• •Double boiler or heat diffuser
• •Offset spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Toast the almonds

   Spread the almonds in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Toast in a 325°F oven until fragrant and just beginning to color inside when you break one open, 12 to 15 minutes. Do not let them brown deeply. Overtoasted almonds turn bitter and ruin the torrone. Keep them warm while you proceed. Cold almonds will seize the nougat.

2. 2

   Prepare your equipment

   Line an 8x12-inch baking pan with one sheet of wafer paper. Have the second sheet ready. Set out your candy thermometer, a heavy wooden spoon, and understand that you will not leave the stove for the next hour. This is not a recipe that forgives distraction.

   A stand mixer is essential. You cannot beat the egg whites and cook the honey simultaneously without one. Attempting this with a hand mixer while managing two pots is how people burn themselves.
3. 3

   Cook the honey

   Pour the honey into a heavy medium saucepan. Attach your candy thermometer. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the honey reaches 250°F. This takes approximately 20 minutes. The honey will foam and darken slightly. Watch it constantly. Honey burns easily and burned honey cannot be salvaged.

4. 4

   Begin the sugar syrup

   While the honey cooks, combine the sugar and water in a separate heavy saucepan. Stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves completely. Stop stirring once it boils. Let it cook undisturbed until it reaches 280°F. If sugar crystals form on the sides of the pan, brush them down with a wet pastry brush.

5. 5

   Beat the egg whites

   When the honey approaches 240°F, begin beating the egg whites and salt in your stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form. The peaks should hold their shape when you lift the whisk. Do not overbeat into dry clumps.

6. 6

   Add the hot honey

   When the honey reaches 250°F, reduce the mixer speed to medium-low. Pour the hot honey in a thin, steady stream down the side of the bowl, avoiding the whisk. Continue beating. The mixture will become thick and glossy. This is the beginning of your nougat.

   Hot honey is dangerously hot. Pour carefully. If it hits the whisk directly, it will splatter. Keep your face away from the bowl.
7. 7

   Add the sugar syrup

   When the sugar syrup reaches 280°F, again reduce mixer speed to medium-low and pour it in a thin, steady stream down the side of the bowl. Increase speed to medium-high and continue beating. The nougat will become increasingly thick and white. Beat until the mixture is very thick and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the vanilla in the final minute of beating.

8. 8

   Cook the nougat

   Transfer the nougat to a heavy-bottomed pot set over a double boiler or the lowest possible direct heat. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 45 minutes to 1 hour. The nougat is ready when a small piece dropped into cold water becomes firm and snaps cleanly when bent. For softer torrone, cook less. For the traditional hard torrone of Cremona, cook longer.

   This extended cooking drives out moisture and develops the characteristic texture. Your arm will tire. Switch hands. Do not stop stirring. Scorched nougat on the bottom of the pot will ruin the entire batch.
9. 9

   Add the almonds

   When the nougat reaches your desired consistency, fold in the warm toasted almonds quickly and thoroughly. Work fast. The nougat stiffens rapidly once off heat. Every almond should be coated and evenly distributed.

10. 10

    Shape the torrone

    Turn the nougat onto the prepared pan lined with wafer paper. Press it into an even layer about 3/4-inch thick using an oiled offset spatula or the back of an oiled spoon. Place the second sheet of wafer paper on top. Press firmly with another pan or flat weight to create an even surface. Let cool completely at room temperature, at least 4 hours or overnight.

11. 11

    Cut and store

    Turn the cooled torrone onto a cutting board. Using a large sharp knife oiled lightly, cut into bars approximately 1 inch by 3 inches. Clean and re-oil the knife between cuts to prevent sticking. Wrap individual pieces in wax paper or cellophane. Stored in an airtight container at cool room temperature, torrone keeps for several weeks.

Chef Tips

• •The quality of your honey determines the quality of your torrone. Supermarket honey blended from multiple countries will taste like supermarket torrone. Seek out single-origin acacia, chestnut, or wildflower honey from a producer you trust.
• •Humidity is the enemy of torrone. Do not attempt this on a rainy day. The nougat will absorb moisture from the air and become sticky rather than firm. Choose a dry day, preferably in the cooler months when the heat is running.
• •Traditional torrone morbido (soft) cooks for 30 to 40 minutes. Torrone duro (hard) requires the full hour or more. Taste the cooled test pieces to know when you have reached your preference.
• •Edible wafer paper (ostie) can be found at Italian specialty shops or ordered online. Without it, the torrone sticks to everything. Do not substitute parchment paper, which does not become part of the confection.

Advance Preparation

• •Torrone must be made at least 4 hours before serving to allow complete cooling and setting. Overnight is better.
• •Properly wrapped and stored in an airtight container, torrone keeps for 3 to 4 weeks at cool room temperature. Do not refrigerate, as condensation will make it sticky.
• •The almonds can be toasted up to one day ahead and stored in an airtight container. Rewarm them before adding to the nougat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 23g)