Torandae-namul (Seasoned Dried Taro Stems)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large bowl for overnight soaking
• •Heavy 3-quart pot
• •Colander
• •Wide skillet with lid
• •Kitchen scissors or knife

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the stems

   Rinse the dried taro stems under running water, rubbing away dust and grit. Put them in a large bowl with 8 cups cold water and soak at least 8 hours, or overnight. They need room to swell, and the long soak begins pulling out the harshness that makes rushed torandae unpleasant.

   If your kitchen is warm, soak them in the refrigerator. Dried vegetables are sturdy, but clean soaking water matters.
2. 2

   Boil until tender

   Drain the soaked stems and put them in a pot with 10 cups fresh water and 1 teaspoon coarse salt. Bring to a boil, then lower to a steady simmer and cook 35 to 50 minutes, depending on the age and thickness of the stems. Start checking at 30 minutes. A ready stem bends easily and tears with a small pull, with no dry core in the center.

3. 3

   Rinse and taste

   Drain the stems and rinse them well in cold water, changing the water once or twice. Taste a small piece. It should be mild, not sharp or prickly. If it still feels harsh on the tongue, boil it again in fresh water for 10 to 15 minutes and rinse once more. This is not fussing. This is the dish.

4. 4

   Trim and squeeze

   Squeeze the stems firmly but not dry enough to turn them wiry. Cut them into 2 1/2-inch lengths. If any pieces are thick, split them lengthwise with your fingers so they season evenly. Namul should fit naturally over rice, not fight the chopsticks.

5. 5

   Season by hand

   Put the prepared stems in a bowl with the soup soy sauce, regular soy sauce, minced garlic, sesame oil, and perilla powder. Mix by hand, rubbing the seasoning through the strands so it reaches the folds. Let it sit 10 minutes. Seasoning in the bowl first matters because the pan is for warming and blooming, not for chasing flavor at the last second.

6. 6

   Saute gently

   Heat a skillet over medium heat and add the neutral oil. Add the seasoned taro stems and stir-fry 3 minutes, keeping them moving so the garlic does not scorch. Add 3 tablespoons anchovy-kelp broth or water, cover, and cook 5 to 7 minutes, until the stems look glossy and the perilla powder clings softly instead of sitting dry on the surface.

7. 7

   Finish and serve

   Uncover, add the chopped scallion, and cook 1 minute more. Taste before adding salt. The soy sauces may already be enough, but if the stems taste flat, add up to 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt in small pinches. Finish with toasted sesame seeds and serve warm or at room temperature as banchan.

Chef Tips

• •Buy dried taro stems that are clean, brown, and flexible enough to bend slightly in the bag. If they smell musty or look dusty-gray, leave them at the market. A dried vegetable should smell stored, not neglected.
• •Do not skip the second boil if the stems taste sharp after rinsing. Taro stems can contain irritating calcium oxalate crystals, and proper soaking and boiling are what make them pleasant to eat.
• •Perilla powder thickens as it warms. If the pan looks dry, add broth 1 tablespoon at a time. You want a soft coating, not a paste.
• •Anchovy-kelp broth gives a deeper table flavor, but water is acceptable for a cleaner namul or a vegetarian table. If cooking temple-style, leave out the garlic and use water; the dish will be quieter, but still honest.

Advance Preparation

• •The taro stems can be soaked, boiled, rinsed, squeezed, and cut up to 2 days ahead. Keep them refrigerated in a covered container, then season and saute before serving.
• •Finished torandae-namul keeps 3 days refrigerated. Bring it to room temperature before serving, or warm it gently in a skillet with 1 tablespoon water to loosen the perilla coating.
• •For a Jeongwol Daeboreum table, prepare this alongside other mukeun namul the day before and serve with ogokbap. Each namul should still be seasoned alone, in its own bowl, so every vegetable keeps its own voice.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 90g)