Tomatokeftedes Santorinis (Ντοματοκεφτέδες Σαντορίνης)

Tomatokeftedes Santorinis are Santorini's tomato fritters, the island's pseftokeftedes, false meatballs, made without meat because the tomato is the body of the dish. They belong to the Cyclades, and more sharply to Santorini, where the small low-water tomatoes grow dense and sweet in volcanic soil and hard wind. The region is the dish's surname.

The whole thing depends on draining the tomato before the flour goes in. If you mix wet pulp straight into batter, the fritters spread, soften, and take in oil like a sponge. Salt the grated tomato, let it shed its water, then fold in onion, mint, oregano, capers, and just enough flour to hold a rough spoonful together. That's the only trick.

These are nistisima by nature, fit for the fasting table, but they never feel like a substitute. They are summer food, balcony food, the plate that disappears while the fish is still on the grill. In my notebook, the best versions are the plainest ones: good tomatoes, sharp herbs, hot oil, patience. Λίγα και καλά.