Tiramisù Classico

Tiramisù means 'pick me up,' and this is exactly what it does. The espresso cuts through the richness of the mascarpone. The eggs give it body and lift. The cocoa provides bitter contrast. This is not a complicated dessert. It is four elements in perfect balance.

Americans have done terrible things to tiramisù. They add whipped cream, which makes it heavy and masks the mascarpone. They substitute coffee liqueur for espresso, which makes it boozy and sweet. They use instant coffee, which makes it taste like nothing at all. These 'variations' betray the original.

The classic requires raw eggs. This concerns some people. If it concerns you, use the freshest eggs from a source you trust, or do not make tiramisù. There is no version of this dessert that achieves the same texture without them. The zabaglione-style cream, made by beating egg yolks with sugar until pale and thick, then folding in mascarpone and beaten whites, creates something no amount of whipped cream can replicate.

This is a dessert that improves overnight. The savoiardi soften and absorb the coffee and the cream. The flavors marry. Make it the day before you need it. Your patience will be rewarded.