
Chef Klaus
Berlin Currywurst
The Berlin Imbiss counter on a plate: fried sausage cut thick, a tomato curry sauce cooked until glossy, and enough fries or bread to chase every bit.
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The Thuringian grill sausage is long, lean, and herbal with marjoram, made for the hot Rost, the grill grate, and a split Brötchen with sharp mustard.
Thüringer Rostbratwurst belongs to Thuringia first, and to the grill next. It is not a Munich Weißwurst, not a Franconian Drei im Weggla, three small sausages in a roll, and not a city hot dog in disguise. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. Here the sausage is long, pale before the fire, fragrant with marjoram, caraway, pepper, and garlic, then browned over a proper Rost, the grill grate.
The argument is old and local. Thuringia wants the sausage coarse enough to have bite but fine enough to bind, with marjoram doing the talking. Franconia goes smaller and often sharper, Bavaria has its own white veal sausage and a different morning table entirely. Das ist kein Bierzelt. This is food from a market stand, a garden grill, a football evening, a weeknight when the butcher has done good work.
The technique that decides it is heat control. Lay the sausage over a medium-hot fire, not a roaring one, because the casing must dry, tighten, and brown before the fat inside boils and splits it. Turn it once when the underside is properly coloured. Keep flipping and you tear the skin; blast it and you get a burnt casing with raw grief in the middle. Runter mit der Temperatur if the fat starts to spit hard.
Eat it in a Brötchen, a crisp bread roll, with mustard. Not ketchup. The mustard cuts the pork fat and the bread catches the juice. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
The earliest written reference tied to Thüringer Rostbratwurst is from 1404, in the accounts of the Arnstadt convent, where money was recorded for sausage casings. The modern protected geographical indication, registered in the European Union in the 2000s, fixes the sausage to Thuringia by name and style: a long pork sausage in natural casing, seasoned especially with marjoram, caraway, pepper, and garlic. Its regional identity is sharp because nearby Franconia, Bavaria, and Saxony all keep their own bratwurst habits, from tiny Nuremberg sausages to white Munich Weisswurst.
Quantity
1.2kg
well chilled and diced
Quantity
300g
well chilled and diced
Quantity
27g
Quantity
4g
freshly ground
Quantity
3g
freshly ground
Quantity
5g
rubbed between the palms
Quantity
2g
Quantity
1g
Quantity
2
crushed to a paste
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
2m
soaked and rinsed
Quantity
12
split
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pork shoulderwell chilled and diced | 1.2kg |
| pork belly or back fatwell chilled and diced | 300g |
| fine salt | 27g |
| white pepperfreshly ground | 4g |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 3g |
| dried marjoramrubbed between the palms | 5g |
| ground caraway | 2g |
| ground nutmeg | 1g |
| garlic clovescrushed to a paste | 2 |
| ice-cold water | 120ml |
| natural hog casingssoaked and rinsed | 2m |
| Brötchensplit | 12 |
| Thuringian or sharp German mustard | to serve |
Put the diced pork shoulder, belly, grinder parts, and mixing bowl in the refrigerator until everything is very cold. Cold meat cuts clean and holds its fat; warm meat smears, and smeared fat gives you a dry sausage with greasy spots instead of a juicy bind.
Grind the meat and fat through a 4.5mm plate into the cold bowl. Add the salt, peppers, marjoram, caraway, nutmeg, garlic, and ice-cold water, then mix firmly until the meat turns sticky and clings to the bowl. That stickiness is the bind. Without it the sausage crumbles inside the casing.
Rinse the hog casings inside and out, then feed them onto the stuffer and fill them steadily, firm but not tight. Leave a little slack because the sausage expands on the Rost; overstuff it and the casing splits before the centre is cooked. Twist into 15 to 18cm links.
Lay the sausages uncovered in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, or up to overnight. The surface dries slightly, and a dry casing browns cleanly on the grill instead of sticking and tearing. Weggeworfen wird nichts: trim scraps go into the next pan of beans or cabbage.
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal grill with one cooler side. The fire is right when you can hold your hand above the grate for about 4 seconds. Too hot and the casing burns before the pork reaches 71C; too cool and the sausage stews on the grate without colour.
Lay the sausages on the hot grate and let them sit until the underside is deep golden and the casing has tightened, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn once, then cook the second side until browned and the centre reaches 71C, another 4 to 6 minutes. Don't stab them. The juice belongs in the sausage, not in the coals.
Split the Brötchen and warm the cut side briefly on the grate so the bread catches the fat without going soggy. Lay one sausage in each roll and spoon on mustard. Nicht aus dem Glas applies to sauce; mustard may come from the crock. Ketchup stays off the table.
1 serving (about 185g)
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