
Chef Dean
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes
Tender buttermilk pancakes folded with butter-glazed apple pieces and warm cinnamon, stacked high and drowning in maple syrup. This is Sunday morning the way it ought to be.
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Paper-thin, golden-laced pancakes from the Scandinavian-American tradition, pliable enough to roll around sweet lingonberry jam or simply dust with powdered sugar and eat with your fingers, the way your grandmother did on Sunday mornings.
Swedish pancakes arrived in America with the great waves of Scandinavian immigration in the late nineteenth century. Families from Stockholm and Gothenburg, from small farms outside Uppsala, packed their recipes alongside their woolens and landed in Minnesota, Wisconsin, the Pacific Northwest. They built churches and founded communities, and on Sunday mornings, they made pannkakor.
These are not the thick, fluffy discs most Americans picture when they hear the word pancake. Swedish pancakes are closer cousins to French crepes, thin and supple, with lacy edges that crisp in the pan. The batter is eggier, richer, designed to be rolled around something sweet or eaten plain with just a whisper of sugar.
I learned to make these from a woman in Ballard, the old Scandinavian neighborhood in Seattle, who had learned from her mother, who had learned from hers. She used a worn steel pan that had made thousands of pancakes, its surface seasoned by decades of butter. She poured the batter by feel, swirled without looking, flipped without hesitation. Watching her was watching muscle memory in action.
You'll develop that same confidence. The first few attempts may tear or fold or stick, but by the fourth or fifth pancake, your wrist will know the motion. This is weekend cooking at its finest: unhurried, forgiving, best enjoyed with coffee and family and nowhere particular to be.
Quantity
3
at room temperature
Quantity
1 1/4 cups
at room temperature
Quantity
3/4 cup (95g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
melted and cooled, plus more for the pan
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for dusting
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large eggsat room temperature | 3 |
| whole milkat room temperature | 1 1/4 cups |
| all-purpose flour | 3/4 cup (95g) |
| granulated sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| unsalted buttermelted and cooled, plus more for the pan | 3 tablespoons |
| pure vanilla extract | 1/2 teaspoon |
| lingonberry preserves | for serving |
| powdered sugar | for dusting |
| fresh berries (optional) | for serving |
| lightly sweetened whipped cream (optional) | for serving |
Crack your eggs into a large mixing bowl and whisk until the yolks and whites become one. Add the milk, melted butter, vanilla, sugar, and salt. Whisk until smooth. Now sift in the flour, whisking as you go to prevent lumps from forming. The batter should be thin, the consistency of heavy cream. If you dip a spoon and lift it, the batter will sheet off in a steady stream rather than glop.
Cover the bowl and let the batter rest at room temperature for at least thirty minutes. This isn't optional. The flour needs time to hydrate fully, and the gluten needs to relax. Rested batter produces pancakes that are tender and supple. Rushed batter makes pancakes that fight back when you try to roll them.
Set a 9 or 10-inch nonstick skillet or well-seasoned crepe pan over medium heat. Let it warm for two full minutes. Add a small pat of butter and swirl it around the entire surface. The butter should foam gently and turn golden at the edges but not brown. If it sizzles violently and darkens immediately, your pan is too hot. Pull it off the heat for thirty seconds.
Lift the pan from the heat and hold it at an angle. Pour about three tablespoons of batter into the center, then immediately rotate your wrist to swirl the batter across the entire bottom of the pan in one fluid motion. Work quickly. The batter sets within seconds. Return the pan to the heat. The pancake should be thin enough to see through in spots, lacy at the edges.
Let the pancake cook undisturbed for about forty-five seconds to one minute. Watch the edges. When they begin to look dry and pull away from the pan ever so slightly, and when the surface has lost its wet sheen, you're ready to flip. The underside should be golden with darker spots where the batter pooled thicker. These spots are not mistakes. They're character.
Slide a thin spatula under the pancake and flip it in one decisive motion. Hesitation leads to folded, torn pancakes. The second side needs only fifteen to twenty seconds, just enough to set and develop a few golden spots. It will always be paler than the first. That's correct.
Slide the finished pancake onto a plate set over a pot of barely simmering water, or into a 200°F oven. Stack them directly on top of each other. The steam between layers keeps them pliable. Continue with the remaining batter, adding a small amount of butter to the pan every third or fourth pancake. Stir the batter occasionally as it tends to settle.
To serve, lay a pancake beautiful-side down. Spread a generous stripe of lingonberry preserves down the center, leaving an inch at each end. Roll the pancake into a loose cylinder. Arrange two or three rolls on each plate, dust with powdered sugar through a fine sieve, and serve immediately. Some prefer a dollop of whipped cream alongside. Others want fresh berries scattered over the top. Both are correct.
1 serving (about 120g)
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