Thessaloniki Panseta se Pita (Πανσέτα σε Πίτα)

Panseta se pita belongs to Thessaloniki and Macedonia's souvlatzidika, the grill shops where pork belly earns its place beside souvlaki and soutzoukaki. It is not a dainty wrap. It is fresh pork belly, oregano, lemon, mustard, tomato, onion, a few fries, and a warm pita strong enough to hold the juices.

The whole dish rests on the fire. Grill the panseta slowly enough for the fat to render, then give it a brief hotter kiss at the end so the edges crisp. If you rush it over flames, the outside burns while the fat stays thick and rubbery. Good olive oil, and patience.

I give you the Thessaloniki version I know from the counter: mustard rather than a heavy blanket of sauce, tomato for juice, onion and parsley for bite, potatoes tucked in because the north is generous that way. The region is the dish's surname. Wrap it hot, eat it with both hands, and don't apologize for the napkin.