Thessaloniki Lenten Halvas Simigdalenios (Χαλβάς Σιμιγδαλένιος)

In Thessaloniki and Greek Macedonia, halvas simigdalenios is the Lenten pot sweet: coarse semolina toasted in oil, soaked with cinnamon syrup, pressed into a mould, and dusted dark on top. It isn't the tahini halva from the grocer's counter. This one is made at home, from pantry things, when Lent has taken butter and eggs off the table and still everyone wants something sweet after beans or lentils.

The method that decides it is the toasting. Keep the semolina moving in the oil until it passes from sand-colored to deep gold and smells of nuts. Stop pale and the halvas tastes raw. Push it too far and it goes bitter. Deep gold is the middle road, and that is the whole secret.

The old measure is easy to remember: one oil, two semolina, three sugar, four water. I give you the milliliters and weights because your first pot should not depend on the mood of your teacup. My grandmother Despina kept this for the fasting weeks in Thessaloniki, and she did not decorate it like a cake. Cinnamon, almonds if there were almonds, and finished.