
Chef Dimitra
Agrafa Batzina (Μπατζίνα), Courgette and Feta Pie
Agrafa's batzina is the no-phyllo pie of Karditsa: grated courgette, feta, eggs, milk, and flour poured thin into a hot oiled tapsi.
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Thessaly's plastos is the field-hand's greens pie: wild greens and feta on a rough bobota crust, folded at the edges and baked sturdy.
Plastos belongs to Thessaly, especially the plain where cornmeal and greens fed working kitchens without ceremony. It is not phyllo pie. It is bobota, a rough cornmeal crust, spread thin in a tapsi, loaded with wild greens, then folded at the edges so the pie can be cut and carried by hand.
The whole dish depends on the base. Cornmeal has no patience for vagueness here: it needs enough warm water and oil to press into a firm layer, and it needs a hard hand in the pan. Leave it loose and it crumbles. Press it well and it bakes into a sturdy, golden bottom that holds the greens like it was made for the field.
Use the greens the season gives you. In spring, bitter wild horta are best. In a city kitchen, spinach, chard, sorrel, and a little leek make a good honest filling. Feta is common in the rich version; for a nistisimo table, leave out the feta and egg, add a little more olive oil, and the dish still knows its name.
Plastos is a Thessalian cornmeal pie tied to the spread of maize in mainland Greek cooking after maize entered Europe from the Americas and became a poor household staple in the Balkans. In Thessaly and nearby mountain villages, bobota-style cornmeal dough replaced phyllo when wheat flour was scarce or too costly. The pie records a working kitchen: greens from the field, cornmeal from the sack, and enough oil and cheese when the household had them.
Quantity
450g
divided
Quantity
80g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
divided
Quantity
420ml
plus 2 tablespoons if needed
Quantity
90ml
divided
Quantity
900g
washed and roughly chopped
Quantity
4
finely sliced
Quantity
1 medium
white and pale green parts only, finely sliced
Quantity
25g
chopped
Quantity
15g
chopped
Quantity
220g
crumbled
Quantity
1
lightly beaten
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| coarse yellow cornmealdivided | 450g |
| all-purpose flour | 80g |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1 teaspoon |
| warm waterplus 2 tablespoons if needed | 420ml |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oildivided | 90ml |
| mixed wild greens, spinach, chard, or sorrelwashed and roughly chopped | 900g |
| spring onionsfinely sliced | 4 |
| leekwhite and pale green parts only, finely sliced | 1 medium |
| fresh dillchopped | 25g |
| fresh mintchopped | 15g |
| fetacrumbled | 220g |
| large egglightly beaten | 1 |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
Put the chopped greens, spring onions, leek, dill, mint, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and black pepper in a wide bowl. Rub them firmly with your hands until they darken, soften, and give off liquid. Squeeze out the excess moisture, not until they are dry as paper, but enough that they don't flood the cornmeal.
Fold the feta and beaten egg into the squeezed greens. Taste before adding more salt, because feta brings its own. The filling should smell green and sharp, with enough cheese to season it, not turn it into a cheese pie.
Heat the oven to 200°C. Mix 350g of the cornmeal with the flour and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir in 420ml warm water and 60ml olive oil until you have a soft, rough dough that holds together when pressed. If it crumbles, add water 1 tablespoon at a time.
Oil a 32cm round metal tapsi with 1 tablespoon of the remaining olive oil. Press the cornmeal dough across the base and a little up the sides, keeping it about 8mm thick. This is the step that decides plastos: press it firmly and evenly, because a loose cornmeal base breaks before the slice reaches your hand.
Spread the greens over the base, leaving a 3cm border. Fold the edge of the cornmeal crust back over the filling in a rough ring. Sprinkle the reserved 100g cornmeal over the top, then drizzle with the last olive oil. Don't smooth it too much. Plastos is a field pie, not a polite tart.
Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the edges are deep gold, the top is speckled and crisp, and the underside releases cleanly when lifted with a spatula. Let it stand 20 minutes before cutting, so the cornmeal sets and the greens settle into the crust.
Cut into wedges or rough squares and serve warm or at room temperature. A good piece should lift in your hand without folding, with the greens soft inside and the cornmeal edge crisp under your teeth.
1 serving (about 250g)
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