
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Kalamarakia Tiganita (Καλαμαράκια Τηγανητά)
Aegean island fried squid is flour, hot oil, lemon, and nerve. Fry it for a minute or two, no longer, and it stays tender under its crisp coat.
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Thassos octopus fritters are a fasting-table meze: tender boiled octopus, onion, mint, dill and a splash of ouzo, fried until the edges turn dark and crisp.
Htapodokeftedes belong to the islands, and this Thassos version is a little dark, a little briny, and fragrant with mint and ouzo. The octopus is cooked first until tender, then chopped small and folded into a thick batter with onion and herbs. They should taste of the sea, not of flour.
The method that decides them is patience before the frying pan. Boil the octopus gently until a knife slips into the thickest part, then let it cool and dry before you chop it. Wet octopus loosens the batter and makes heavy fritters. Dry, tender octopus gives you a crisp outside and a soft, savory middle.
Serve them hot or warm with lemon and a small glass of ouzo. During Lent, octopus has long sat on Greek fasting tables because shellfish and mollusks are allowed when meat and dairy are not. Λίγα και καλά: good octopus, herbs, oil, and no fuss.
Htapodokeftedes are tied to the Aegean islands, where octopus was preserved by drying in the sun and stretched into meze for households and kafeneia. On Thassos, the dish belongs naturally to Lenten and name-day tables, since octopus is permitted under Orthodox fasting rules while meat, eggs and dairy are set aside. The ouzo in the batter is not decoration; it marks the northern Aegean table, where anise and seafood have kept company for generations.
Quantity
1kg
fresh or fully thawed
Quantity
1
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
100g
finely grated
Quantity
2
finely sliced
Quantity
2
minced
Quantity
20g
finely chopped
Quantity
12g
finely chopped
Quantity
8g
finely chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
plus more to finish
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1
Quantity
45ml
Quantity
120g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
500ml
for frying
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cleaned octopus (htapodi)fresh or fully thawed | 1kg |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| dry white wine | 60ml |
| small red onionfinely grated | 100g |
| spring onionsfinely sliced | 2 |
| garlic clovesminced | 2 |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 20g |
| fresh mint leavesfinely chopped | 12g |
| dillfinely chopped | 8g |
| dried Greek oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea saltplus more to finish | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| large egg | 1 |
| ouzo | 45ml |
| plain flour | 120g |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| olive oil or light olive oilfor frying | 500ml |
| lemoncut into wedges | 1 |
Put the octopus in a heavy pot with the bay leaf and wine. Cover and set over low heat. Let it cook in its own liquid for 45 to 60 minutes, turning once, until a small knife slips easily into the thickest arm. Do not add salt here; octopus brings enough of the sea with it.
Lift the octopus onto a plate and let it cool until you can handle it. Pat it dry well, then chop it finely with a knife, pieces no larger than a lentil. This is the step that keeps the fritter honest: tender octopus, dried before chopping, binds cleanly instead of watering down the batter.
Put the chopped octopus in a bowl with the grated red onion, spring onions, garlic, parsley, mint, dill, oregano, salt and pepper. Stir in the egg and ouzo. Sprinkle over the flour and baking powder, then fold until you have a thick, spoonable mixture. It should hold its shape on a spoon, not run.
Cover the bowl and rest it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. The flour hydrates, the herbs settle into the octopus, and the mixture firms enough to fry without scattering in the oil.
Heat 2cm of oil in a wide frying pan to 175C. Drop heaped tablespoons of mixture into the oil, flattening them lightly with the back of the spoon. Fry in small batches for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until deep brown at the edges and set in the middle.
Move the fritters to a rack or paper-lined tray and salt them lightly while hot. Serve at once with lemon wedges. They are best when the edge is crisp and the center is still tender.
1 serving (about 150g)
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