
Chef Lupita
Agua de Alfalfa
Ciudad de México's highland market agua fresca, fresh alfalfa blended with pineapple and lime until bright green, strained clean, and poured cold from the vitrolero.
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Morelos's patio remedy of bruised zacate de limón, boiled until the oils open, sweetened lightly if needed, and poured hot into clay jarritos for the stomach.
Morelos, the warm central state around Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán, and Yautepec, knows this tea from the patio before it knows it from the market. Té de limón is not black tea with lemon. It is zacate de limón, lemongrass, cut from a tall green clump beside the kitchen door, bruised with the back of a knife, and boiled until the whole room smells clean and sharp.
In Morelos, the heat grows the herb easily. The women who taught me this did not measure it like pharmacy. They grabbed a fistful, rinsed off the dust, bent the stalks to crack them, and dropped them into the pot. That bruising matters. If you do not break the fibers, the oils stay trapped inside the stalk and you get weak yellow water. No me vengas con atajos.
This is comfort food without a plate. A cup after too much food, a cup when a child has fever, a cup before bed when the stomach is arguing. My mother kept dried zacate de limón in a paper bag, but she preferred it fresh when the market had good bundles. She wrote in her notebook: 'machacar tantito antes de hervir' (bruise it a little before boiling). She was right. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Zacate de limón, Cymbopogon citratus, arrived in Mexico after the colonial period through global tropical plant exchange and became naturalized in home gardens across warm and temperate regions. In central Mexico, especially Morelos and surrounding states, it entered domestic medicine as a digestive and fever tea because it grows cheaply, dries well, and needs no imported ingredient. The name confuses many cooks outside Mexico: té de limón usually means lemongrass infusion, not Camellia sinensis tea flavored with lemon juice.
Quantity
6 stalks
rinsed well, root ends trimmed, stalks bruised and folded; tender leaves tied in a knot if using
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
1 small piece, about 1 tablespoon grated
Quantity
1 thin strip
no white pith
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh zacate de limón (lemongrass)rinsed well, root ends trimmed, stalks bruised and folded; tender leaves tied in a knot if using | 6 stalks |
| water | 4 cups |
| piloncillo (optional) | 1 small piece, about 1 tablespoon grated |
| Mexican lime peel (optional)no white pith | 1 thin strip |
Rinse the zacate de limón under running water, especially near the base where soil hides. Trim away dry brown tips and the tough root end. Keep the tender green leaves if they smell bright when crushed. If they smell like dry straw, use only the stalks.
Lay the stalks on a board and hit them firmly with the back of a knife or a small rolling pin until the fibers split. Fold each stalk in half so it fits in the pot. This is the step that releases the oils. Whole stalks give you polite water. Bruised stalks give you tea. Así se hace y punto.
Put the bruised zacate de limón and water in a small clay olla or saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then lower the heat and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes. The liquid should turn pale gold and smell grassy, citrusy, and clean. Do not boil it hard for half an hour. You are extracting the herb, not punishing it.
Add piloncillo only if the tea is for someone who needs a little comfort or if the herb is very sharp. Stir until dissolved. If using lime peel, add it for the last 30 seconds only, then remove it. The peel should brighten the cup, not make it bitter.
Strain into clay jarritos or thick cups. Drink it hot, in slow sips. For the stomach, serve it plain or barely sweetened. For fever days, do not make it syrupy. This tea belongs to the medicine of the house, not the dessert table.
1 serving (about 240g)
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