
Chef Lupita
Agua de Chaya Tabasqueña
Tabasco's daily green refresher from the Chontalpa, made with blanched chaya leaves, limón criollo, and piloncillo, poured over ice for the kind of heat that makes the kitchen slow down.
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Chiapas highland cascara tea from Tenejapa, made with dried coffee cherry husks, canela, and jengibre, a bright low-caffeine infusion built from what the coffee bean leaves behind.
This comes from Chiapas, from Los Altos, from Tenejapa and the Tseltal communities that live with coffee as work, income, and daily rhythm. Not the roasted bean in a city cafe. The fruit around the bean. The cerezo de café that many people throw away because they don't know what they are holding.
Cascara is the dried skin and pulp of the coffee cherry after the bean is removed. In the highlands, where the mornings bite and the fog sits low over the slopes, women have long understood how to use what the harvest leaves behind. They rinse it, simmer it gently, and season it with canela and jengibre when the body needs warmth. No chiles here. Not all Mexican food needs chile. This is a 32-state cuisine, and Chiapas knows its own pantry.
The rule is gentleness. Do not boil the cascara like you are angry at it. Treat it like jamaica with less acid and more raisin. The drink should be amber, tart, lightly sweet, and alive with the smell of fruit drying near a coffee patio. Si no conoces el mercado, no conoces la cocina. Ask the coffee producers, not the supermarket shelf.
Coffee arrived in Chiapas in the 19th century and became deeply tied to the highland and Soconusco economies, with many Indigenous communities later organizing around smallholder production and cooperatives. Cascara, the dried husk of the coffee cherry, was often treated as agricultural waste in commercial processing, but producing communities have used it as an infusion because it carries the fruit flavor of coffee with much less caffeine than the roasted bean. In Tenejapa and nearby Los Altos municipalities, the drink belongs to a practical tradition of using the whole harvest, a principle older than coffee itself in Mexican cooking.
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
1/2 cup
rinsed quickly
Quantity
1 small
Quantity
4 thin slices
Quantity
1 to 2 tablespoons
to taste
Quantity
1 strip
Quantity
1 pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| water | 4 cups |
| dried coffee cherry husks (cascara or cerezo de café)rinsed quickly | 1/2 cup |
| Mexican canela stick | 1 small |
| fresh jengibre | 4 thin slices |
| piloncillo, grated, or honey from Chiapasto taste | 1 to 2 tablespoons |
| orange peel (optional) | 1 strip |
| sea salt | 1 pinch |
Put the dried coffee cherry husks in a fine-mesh strainer and rinse them quickly under cool water. Do not soak them. You are removing field dust, not washing away the fruit. Good cascara smells like raisin, tamarind, and dry apple skin. If it smells musty, old, or sour in the wrong way, do not use it. Sourcing wins before technique.
Pour the water into a clay olla or small saucepan and bring it just to a bare simmer over medium heat. You want small bubbles at the edge, not a hard boil. Cascara gives up its fruit cleanly when treated gently. Boil it hard and you pull bitterness from the skins.
Add the cascara, canela, jengibre, orange peel if using, and the pinch of sea salt. Lower the heat and let it move quietly for 10 minutes. The liquid will turn amber red, somewhere between jamaica and weak coffee, with a bright smell that belongs to the coffee fruit, not the roasted bean. This is not coffee. Do not expect coffee.
Stir in 1 tablespoon piloncillo or Chiapas honey and taste. Add more only if the cascara is very tart. The sweetness should support the fruit, not bury it. Women in coffee-growing towns know this because they taste the harvest all year, fresh cherry, dried husk, roasted bean. Nothing gets wasted when the work is that hard.
Turn off the heat and let the infusion rest for 5 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into clay jarritos or a small pitcher. Serve warm, or chill it and serve over ice later. It keeps well because the flavor is clean and lightly acidic. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 235g)
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