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Created by Chef Lupita
Highland Chiapas tamales from Comitán, with masa stained gold by azafrán, beaten with manteca de cerdo, wrapped in hoja de plátano, and made for Christmas tables that know their region.
Chiapas, the highlands around Comitán de Domínguez. That is where these tamales live. Not in the lowland Tabasco world of chaya and amashito, not in the Oaxacan banana-leaf tamal de mole negro, but in Comitán, where the table carries Spanish colonial traces, Maya technique, and the discipline of women who knew how to make celebration food stretch across a whole family.
The masa is yellow because of azafrán. In many Mexican markets, azafrán means safflower, and vendors will sell it to you with a straight face. For these tamales, look for true saffron threads if you can, the kind that stains hot broth gold and smells floral, dry, and a little metallic. If all you can find is Mexican azafrán de hebra, ask the women at the market what they use for tamales comitecos. Pregúntale a las señoras del mercado. They will know faster than the internet.
The filling is not chile-heavy. Remember that. Not all Mexican food is built on heat. Here the work is in the seasoned broth, the lard-beaten masa, the soft meat, the almonds, raisins, olives, and the banana leaf that perfumes everything as it steams. My mother wrote next to a Chiapas recipe in her notebook: 'the leaf must be passed over fire or it breaks.' Practical woman. She was right.
These are special-occasion tamales. Christmas, weddings, family tables where someone has been cooking since before sunrise. No me vengas con atajos. Beat the masa until it floats, strain the saffron broth, soften the banana leaves over the flame, and fold cleanly. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Quantity
2 pounds
cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1 small
halved
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless pork shouldercut into 2-inch pieces | 2 pounds |
| bone-in chicken thighs | 1 pound |
| white onionhalved | 1 small |
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