
Chef Zohra
Poulet M'hammer aux Amandes (دجاج محمر)
A celebration chicken simmered low in saffron onion sauce, browned until golden, then carried to the table with fried almonds scattered over the top.
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A Fassi winter tagine where lamb braises slowly with khorchef, preserved lemon, saffron, and olives until the cardoons turn tender and the sauce gathers itself around the meat.
When khorchef arrives in the winter souks, pale green and a little thorny, I change my cooking. Cardoon is not a vegetable you bully. You trim it, pull away the strings, rub it with lemon, and give it time in the pot until its bitterness softens into something silky and deep.
This tagine belongs to the colder months, when lamb has the patience for a long braise and preserved lemon brings the sharp gold the dish needs. The one thing that decides it is the cleaning of the cardoons: if you leave the strings, they fight you at the table. Pull them away well, and the stems drink the saffron sauce like they were made for it.
In Fez, this is comfort food with manners, not a ceremony but not careless either. Serve it in the middle, with khobz to chase the sauce, and make room for one more hand reaching in. Une table, c'est une porte qu'on laisse ouverte, a table is a door you leave open.
Cardoons, Cynara cardunculus, belong to the old Mediterranean thistle family cultivated and gathered around North Africa and southern Europe since antiquity, and in Morocco they are known in the winter market as khorchef or kharchouf. The lamb and cardoon tagine is especially associated with the Fassi citadin kitchen, where preserved lemon, saffron, ginger, and olives show the Andalusi and trans-Saharan spice routes meeting in a household pot. Its exact date is not fixed in writing, but the technique sits clearly inside the long urban braising repertoire of Fez from the medieval Marinid period onward.
Quantity
1.4 kg
cut into large pieces
Quantity
1.2 kg
trimmed and stripped of strings, cleaned weight about 700g
Quantity
2
pulp removed and rind cut into strips
Quantity
150g
rinsed
Quantity
2 large
grated
Quantity
4
crushed
Quantity
1 small bunch
tied with kitchen string
Quantity
1 small bunch
tied with kitchen string
Quantity
1 pinch
bloomed in 3 tbsp warm water
Quantity
2 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1 small pinch
optional, from a trusted spice merchant
Quantity
4 tbsp
Quantity
1 tbsp
for holding the cardoons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
500ml
plus more as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| lamb shoulder or neckcut into large pieces | 1.4 kg |
| fresh cardoons (khorchef)trimmed and stripped of strings, cleaned weight about 700g | 1.2 kg |
| preserved lemonspulp removed and rind cut into strips | 2 |
| green or violet Moroccan olivesrinsed | 150g |
| onionsgrated | 2 large |
| garlic clovescrushed | 4 |
| flat-leaf parsleytied with kitchen string | 1 small bunch |
| fresh coriandertied with kitchen string | 1 small bunch |
| saffron threadsbloomed in 3 tbsp warm water | 1 pinch |
| ground ginger | 2 tsp |
| ground turmeric | 1 tsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| ras el hanout (optional)optional, from a trusted spice merchant | 1 small pinch |
| olive oil | 4 tbsp |
| lemon juicefor holding the cardoons | 1 tbsp |
| sea salt | to taste |
| waterplus more as needed | 500ml |
Pull off the leaves and tough edges from the cardoon stalks, then strip away the long strings with a small knife or peeler. Cut the stalks into 8cm pieces and drop them into cold water with the lemon juice. This matters because cardoon darkens quickly, and the strings never become tender no matter how long you cook them.
Set a heavy tagine base or braising pot over medium heat. Add the olive oil, grated onions, garlic, ginger, turmeric, black pepper, saffron water, and a careful pinch of salt. Add the lamb and turn it through the spices until every piece is yellow-gold and fragrant.
Add the parsley and coriander bundles, then pour in enough water to come halfway up the meat. Cover and cook gently for about 1 hour, turning the lamb once or twice, until it has begun to soften and the onions have melted into the sauce. Keep the flame low. A tagine forgives time better than haste.
Drain the cardoons and tuck them around and under the lamb so they sit in the sauce, not dry on top. Cover again and simmer for 45 to 60 minutes, until the stems are tender when pierced and the lamb pulls easily from the bone. Add a little water only if the pot is catching.
Add the preserved lemon rind and olives for the last 15 minutes. Uncover if the sauce is thin and let it reduce until glossy, saffron-gold, and spoon-coating. Taste before salting again, because preserved lemon and olives bring their own salt.
Lift out the herb bundles and arrange the lamb in the center with the cardoons around it, then spoon the sauce over everything. Serve from the tagine or a warm platter with round khobz. The bread is not decoration here, it is how you gather the sauce.
1 serving (about 360g)
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