
Chef Lupita
Mone Zoque-Chol de Hoja Santa
Chiapas' Zoque-Chol leaf wrap, pork or charcoal-roasted pejelagarto folded with tomate, chile simojovel or amashito, plátano macho, and hoja santa, then slow-steamed until the leaf perfumes every bite.
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Chiapa de Corzo's Fiesta Grande taco: pork liver, heart, and lung cooked slowly in chile pasilla, tomato, spices, and manteca, then spooned into warm corn tortillas.
Chiapas, Chiapa de Corzo, January. That is where this dish lives. During the Fiesta Grande, when the parachicos fill the streets and the kitchens start before the sun is useful, chanfaina is one of the foods that reminds you celebration is work before it is music.
This is not a clean little taco for people afraid of the animal. Chanfaina uses the asadura: liver, heart, and lung, sometimes with a little pork shoulder to soften the texture for guests. The chile pasilla gives the stew its dark color and quiet bitterness. Tomato, garlic, clove, cinnamon, thyme, and bay leaf build the fondo. Manteca de cerdo carries it. La manteca es el sabor.
I learned this version from women in Chiapa de Corzo who cooked in wide cazuelas and served from clay, not from stainless trays. They rinsed the offal with salt and sour orange, boiled it first so the flavor stayed clean, then fried the recado until the fat separated. No me vengas con atajos. If you throw raw liver into thin chile sauce, the taco will taste tired and metallic. Do the work correctly and it becomes festival food.
The tortilla must be corn, hand-pressed if you can manage it, warmed on a comal until it puffs and takes small brown spots. Flour tortillas belong to other parts of Mexico. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Chanfaina arrived in Mexico through Iberian offal cookery, especially the Spanish and Portuguese habit of stewing lamb or pork entrails with bread, spices, and fat after slaughter. In Chiapa de Corzo, the dish became tied to the January Fiesta Grande, a celebration honoring the Señor de Esquipulas, San Antonio Abad, and San Sebastián, where large communal cooking turns inexpensive cuts into food for many people. The Chiapanecan version keeps the colonial spice profile, clove, cinnamon, thyme, and bay leaf, but grounds the stew in local festival practice, corn tortillas, clay cazuelas, and the pork economy of the region.
Quantity
1 pound
trimmed and rinsed
Quantity
1/2 pound
trimmed and rinsed
Quantity
1/2 pound
rinsed and cut into large pieces
Quantity
2 tablespoons, divided
Quantity
1/2 cup
or 1/4 cup fresh orange juice mixed with 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
Quantity
1/2
Quantity
4
Quantity
2
divided
Quantity
6
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
2
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
3
roasted on a comal
Quantity
1/2
roasted on a comal
Quantity
4
roasted on a comal
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup, plus more as needed
Quantity
18 to 22
warmed on a comal
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pork livertrimmed and rinsed | 1 pound |
| pork hearttrimmed and rinsed | 1/2 pound |
| pork lung or pork shoulderrinsed and cut into large pieces | 1/2 pound |
| kosher salt | 2 tablespoons, divided |
| sour orange juiceor 1/4 cup fresh orange juice mixed with 1/4 cup fresh lime juice | 1/2 cup |
| white onion for simmering | 1/2 |
| garlic cloves for simmering | 4 |
| bay leavesdivided | 2 |
| dried chile pasillastemmed and seeded | 6 |
| dried chile anchostemmed and seeded | 2 |
| Roma tomatoesroasted on a comal | 3 |
| white onion for the recadoroasted on a comal | 1/2 |
| garlic cloves for the recadoroasted on a comal | 4 |
| pork lard (manteca de cerdo) | 3 tablespoons |
| ground clove | 1/4 teaspoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dried thyme | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| reserved offal broth | 1 cup, plus more as needed |
| small corn tortillaswarmed on a comal | 18 to 22 |
| finely diced white onion (optional) | for serving |
| chopped cilantro (optional) | for serving |
| lime wedges (optional) | for serving |
| salsa de chile pasilla or salsa de chile de arbol (optional) | for serving |
Put the pork liver, heart, and lung or shoulder in a large bowl. Rub with 1 tablespoon salt and the sour orange juice. Let stand 15 minutes, then rinse well under cold water. This is not perfume work. It cleans the offal and keeps the final stew from tasting harsh.
Place the cleaned offal in a pot with the onion half, 4 garlic cloves, 1 bay leaf, 1 tablespoon salt, and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a simmer, skim the gray foam, then cook gently for 45 to 60 minutes, until the heart is tender and the liver is firm but not dry. Save 2 cups of the broth. Discard the onion, garlic, and bay leaf.
Let the cooked offal cool until you can handle it. Dice it into small pieces, about 1/4 inch. A taco de chanfaina should eat like a stew tucked into a tortilla, not like chunks of boiled liver rolling around. The women who make this for fiesta chop patiently. That knife work matters.
Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the chile pasilla and chile ancho one or two at a time, about 20 to 30 seconds per side, pressing them flat with tongs. They should darken slightly and smell deep, not burn. Pasilla turns bitter fast. If a chile blackens, throw it out. Burned chile is not character, it is a mistake.
Cover the toasted chiles with hot water and soak 20 minutes. Drain them. Blend the softened chiles with the roasted tomatoes, roasted onion, roasted garlic, clove, cinnamon, thyme, Mexican oregano, black pepper, and 1 cup reserved offal broth. Blend until completely smooth. If the blender complains, add a little more broth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.
Melt the pork lard in a wide clay cazuela or heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the strained chile recado carefully. It will sputter. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the color darkens, the raw tomato smell disappears, and a red-brown fat line starts to show at the edge. La manteca es el sabor. This is where the stew becomes chanfaina instead of boiled meat with sauce.
Add the chopped offal and the remaining bay leaf to the fried recado. Stir until every piece is coated. Add 1/2 cup reserved broth, lower the heat, and cook uncovered for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring now and then. The sauce should cling to the meat, glossy and thick enough to spoon into a tortilla without flooding it. Taste for salt at the end.
Heat the corn tortillas on a comal until they puff in spots and get light brown freckles. Stack them in a woven servilleta so they stay flexible. Do not use cold tortillas. They break, and then everyone blames the taco when the cook was the problem.
Spoon the chanfaina into warm corn tortillas. Add diced white onion, cilantro, lime, and a little salsa if you want it. Keep the cazuela on the table and let people build their own. Fiesta food is generous food. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 105g)
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