Svinemørbrad med Champignonsovs

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large heavy frying pan or skillet, 28cm or wider
• •Sharp knife for trimming silverskin
• •Tongs for turning medallions
• •Wooden spoon for deglazing

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the pork

   Trim the silverskin from the tenderloins if the butcher hasn't already. It's the thin, pearly membrane that runs along one side. If you leave it on, it tightens in the heat and the meat curls and cooks unevenly. Slide a sharp knife under one end, grip it with a paper towel, and pull it away in strips. Cut the tenderloins into medallions about 3cm thick. Season them generously with salt and pepper on both sides and let them sit at room temperature for ten minutes. Cold meat in a hot pan drops the temperature and you lose the sear.

   If the tail end of the tenderloin is very thin, fold it under itself so the medallion is an even thickness. Even thickness means even cooking. That's the only rule that matters here.
2. 2

   Sear the medallions

   Heat the butter and oil together in a large heavy frying pan over high heat. Butter alone burns before the pork is done. Oil alone tastes flat. Together they give you a golden crust and a nutty richness. When the butter foams and the foam starts to subside, lay the medallions in the pan with space between each one. If they're crowded, the moisture has nowhere to go and you'll steam the pork instead of searing it. Cook for two to three minutes without moving them. Flip when the underside is a deep, even golden brown. Cook the second side for two minutes more. The center should still feel slightly soft when you press it. Take the medallions out and rest them on a warm plate. They'll finish cooking gently while you make the sauce.

   If you have too many medallions for one layer, sear in two batches. A crowded pan is the enemy of a good crust. Wipe the pan between batches only if the fond looks dark and bitter.
3. 3

   Brown the mushrooms

   Keep the pan on the heat. Don't wipe it out. That golden-brown residue on the bottom is fond, concentrated flavor from the pork, and it's the foundation of your sauce. Add the sliced mushrooms in a single layer and let them sit for two minutes without stirring. Mushrooms are mostly water. If you stir them immediately, they release all that moisture and stew instead of browning. Let the pan do the work. When the edges turn golden, stir once and cook for another two minutes until they're deeply colored and smell earthy and rich.

   If the mushrooms look dry and the pan starts to scorch, add a small knob of butter. But give them time first. The browning is where the flavor lives.
4. 4

   Build the sauce

   Push the mushrooms to one side and add the shallots and thyme sprigs to the cleared space. Let the shallots soften for a minute or two, stirring gently, until they turn translucent and lose their bite. Pour in the wine and let it bubble hard, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to lift every bit of fond. This is deglazing, and it's where the sauce gets its depth. When the wine has reduced by half, add the stock and cream. Stir everything together and let the sauce simmer for five to six minutes until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Stir in the mustard. Taste it. Adjust the salt. The sauce should be rich, rounded, and just sharp enough from the mustard to cut through the cream.

   Madeira gives the sauce a slightly sweet, warm depth. White wine gives it brightness. Both are good. Use what you have open.
5. 5

   Finish and serve

   Return the pork medallions and any resting juices to the sauce. Turn the heat to low and let everything warm through for two minutes. Don't boil the sauce once the pork is back in, or the meat will tighten and dry out. Two minutes is enough. Spoon the medallions onto warm plates, pour the mushroom sauce generously over and around them, and scatter with snipped chives. Serve with small boiled potatoes rolled in butter, or a good kartoffelmos made with warm milk and far more butter than seems reasonable. This is the kind of dinner where everyone goes quiet for the first few bites. Tak for mad.

Chef Tips

• •The silverskin must come off. It's the single most important step in cooking tenderloin. Leave it on and the meat curls and toughens no matter what else you do right. Your butcher will do it if you ask, but it takes thirty seconds with a sharp knife.
• •Use brown mushrooms, not white. They have less water and more flavor, and they brown properly rather than turning pale and grey in the pan. If you can find chanterelles in season (late summer through early autumn), use a mix of both. The flavor is extraordinary.
• •Don't rush the fond. When you deglaze the pan, scrape thoroughly. That dark layer is concentrated flavor from the pork and the mushrooms, and it's the reason this sauce tastes like something cooked with love rather than something poured from a carton.
• •Serve with small boiled potatoes dressed in butter and a little salt, or with kartoffelmos, a proper mash made with warm milk and generous butter. Both belong here. A simple green salad dressed with a light vinaigrette is all you need alongside.

Advance Preparation

• •The mushroom sauce can be made up to a day ahead without the pork. Cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat gently and add the seared medallions just before serving, letting them warm through in the sauce for two minutes.
• •The tenderloins can be trimmed and cut into medallions several hours ahead. Keep them covered in the fridge and bring to room temperature for ten minutes before searing. The sear itself should happen just before you eat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 275g)