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Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy-bottomed 4-quart saucepan
• •Deep heavy pot or Dutch oven for frying
• •Deep-fry or instant-read thermometer
• •Rimmed baking sheet
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Slotted spoon or spider

Instructions

1. 1

   Build the soffritto

   In a heavy-bottomed pan or wide saucepan, heat the olive oil and 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook slowly until completely soft and pale gold, about 10 minutes. If using meat, add it now and break it into fine crumbles with a wooden spoon. Cook until the meat loses its raw color and begins to brown lightly, another 8 minutes.

   The meat is optional but traditional. It adds depth without making this a ragù. Use beef or veal, never pork, which belongs in the Southern variations.
2. 2

   Add tomato and rice

   Add the tomato passata and stir well. Let it simmer for 5 minutes until it darkens slightly and loses its raw acidity. Add the rice and stir to coat every grain with the tomato mixture. Toast for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. The grains should become slightly translucent at the edges.

3. 3

   Add wine and cook the rice

   Pour in the wine and stir until it evaporates completely. Begin adding the warm broth one ladleful at a time, stirring frequently. Wait until each addition is nearly absorbed before adding the next. The rice is done when it is tender but still has the faintest resistance, about 18 minutes. It should be slightly wetter than risotto you would serve at table. The mixture will firm as it cools.

   The rice must be softer than you think. It will absorb more liquid as it cools and again when it fries. Err on the side of moisture.
4. 4

   Finish and cool the rice

   Remove from heat and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the mixture onto a rimmed baking sheet in an even layer no thicker than one inch. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface. Refrigerate until completely cold and firm, at least 2 hours or overnight. The rice must be cold or it will not hold its shape.

5. 5

   Form the supplì

   Wet your hands lightly to prevent sticking. Take a generous two tablespoons of rice (about the size of a small egg) and flatten it in your palm. Place one cube of mozzarella in the center. Fold the rice around the cheese, pinching to seal completely. Roll between your palms into an oval shape, slightly pointed at both ends like a small football. The cheese must be completely enclosed. Repeat with remaining rice and mozzarella.

   If the rice cracks while forming, it is too cold or too dry. Let it warm slightly at room temperature for 10 minutes. If it sticks to your hands uncontrollably, it is too warm. Return it briefly to the refrigerator.
6. 6

   Bread the supplì

   Set up three shallow bowls: flour in the first, beaten eggs in the second, breadcrumbs in the third. Working with one supplì at a time, dredge in flour and shake off excess. Roll in egg, letting excess drip off. Finally, coat completely in breadcrumbs, pressing gently to adhere. Place breaded supplì on a clean baking sheet. They can rest at room temperature for up to 30 minutes or be refrigerated for several hours before frying.

7. 7

   Fry until golden

   Pour oil into a deep, heavy pot to a depth of 3 inches. Heat to 350°F (175°C). Use a thermometer. Fry supplì in batches of 4 or 5, never crowding the pot. Turn them occasionally with a slotted spoon for even browning. They are done when deeply golden and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. The internal temperature should reach 165°F to ensure the cheese melts properly.

   If the oil is too hot, the exterior browns before the cheese melts. If too cool, the supplì absorb oil and become greasy. Maintain 350°F between batches by letting the oil recover before adding more.
8. 8

   Drain and serve

   Transfer fried supplì to a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Do not use paper towels, which trap steam and soften the crust. Season immediately with a light sprinkle of salt while the oil still glistens. Let rest only 2 minutes (they must be eaten hot), then serve. Break one open to show your guests the telephone wire effect of the stretching cheese. This is the whole point.

Chef Tips

• •The mozzarella must be fresh and moist. Vacuum-packed low-moisture mozzarella will not stretch properly. Seek out fior di latte from an Italian market or a good cheese counter. Pat the cubes dry before using to prevent the rice from becoming soggy around the center.
• •Roman rosticcerie make these by the hundreds. The secret is forming them while the rice is cold and the cheese is cold, then frying immediately after breading. Cold ingredients, hot oil.
• •Leftover supplì can be reheated in a 400°F oven for 10 minutes, but they will never match the crispness of fresh-fried. Make only what you will eat. Or accept that your guests will eat far more than you anticipated.
• •Some Romans add a spoonful of ragù to the filling along with the cheese. This is gilding the lily, but I will not stop you if your ragù is good.

Advance Preparation

• •The rice mixture can be made up to two days ahead and refrigerated. In fact, it shapes more easily when thoroughly chilled.
• •Formed and breaded supplì can be refrigerated for up to 8 hours before frying. Arrange in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet and cover loosely.
• •Unfried supplì freeze adequately for up to one month. Freeze on a baking sheet until solid, then transfer to freezer bags. Fry directly from frozen, adding 1 to 2 minutes to the cooking time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 90g)