Stuffed Pork Loin with Dried Fruit

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large oven-safe skillet or roasting pan (12-inch minimum)
• •Instant-read meat thermometer
• •Long, sharp carving knife
• •Kitchen twine
• •Meat mallet or heavy-bottomed pan for pounding

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the filling

   Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When it foams, add the shallots and cook until soft and translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, another minute. Toss in the chopped apricots and prunes, stirring to coat them in the butter. Pour in the wine and brandy. Let the mixture simmer until the liquid has nearly evaporated and the fruit has plumped, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in the sage, thyme, and rosemary. Season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Spread the filling on a plate to cool completely. Warm filling will begin cooking the pork before you're ready.

   The filling can be made up to two days ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before stuffing the loin.
2. 2

   Butterfly the pork loin

   Place the pork loin on your cutting board with the fat cap facing up. Using a long, sharp knife, make a horizontal cut along the length of the loin about one inch from the bottom, stopping about half an inch before cutting through. Open this flap like a book. Now make another horizontal cut into the thicker side, again stopping before cutting through, and open it further. You should have a relatively flat, even piece of meat. If some areas are thicker than others, cover with plastic wrap and pound gently with a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy pan until uniformly thick, about three-quarters of an inch throughout.

   If butterflying feels daunting, ask your butcher to do it. Most will oblige if you call ahead. No shame in delegating knife work.
3. 3

   Season and stuff

   Season the interior of the butterflied loin generously with salt and pepper. Spread the cooled fruit filling in an even layer, leaving about an inch border on all sides. Starting from one long edge, roll the pork tightly around the filling, keeping it as compact as possible. The fruit will try to escape. That's fine. Tuck it back in and keep rolling.

4. 4

   Tie the roast

   Cut six to eight lengths of kitchen twine, each about 14 inches long. Slide them under the rolled roast at even intervals, about an inch and a half apart. Tie each piece firmly but not so tight that you squeeze filling out the ends. The goal is a uniform cylinder that will cook evenly. Season the exterior generously with salt and pepper, rubbing it into all surfaces. Let the roast rest at room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.

   The roast can be stuffed, tied, and refrigerated overnight. This actually improves the flavor as the seasonings penetrate the meat. Remove from refrigerator 45 minutes before cooking.
5. 5

   Sear the roast

   Preheat your oven to 375°F. Heat the olive oil and remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large oven-safe skillet or roasting pan over medium-high heat. When the butter foam subsides and you see the first wisps of smoke, carefully place the roast in the pan. Don't touch it. Let it develop a deep golden crust, about 3 minutes per side. Turn it to sear all four sides. This builds the foundation of flavor for your pan sauce and gives the roast that honest, burnished appearance that signals proper technique.

6. 6

   Roast to temperature

   Transfer the pan to the oven (or move the seared roast to a roasting pan fitted with a rack). Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat (not the filling) reads 140°F, approximately 50 to 60 minutes. The filling will register higher, that's expected. Check at 45 minutes and every 10 minutes thereafter. Pork continues cooking after it leaves the oven, so pulling it at 140°F ensures a final temperature around 145°F after resting.

7. 7

   Rest the roast

   Transfer the roast to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Let it rest for 15 to 20 minutes. This is not optional. Cutting into the roast immediately releases all those juices onto your board instead of keeping them in the meat where they belong. The resting period also allows the filling to set slightly, making cleaner slices possible.

8. 8

   Build the pan sauce

   While the roast rests, set the roasting pan over medium heat on the stovetop. Pour in the chicken stock, scraping up every bit of fond (those caramelized bits stuck to the bottom are pure flavor). Let the liquid reduce by half, about 8 minutes, until it coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and whisk in the cold butter, one tablespoon at a time, to create a glossy, emulsified sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning. Strain through a fine mesh sieve if you want a refined presentation, though I rarely bother.

9. 9

   Slice and serve

   Remove the twine from the roast. Using a sharp carving knife, cut into slices about three-quarters of an inch thick, revealing the spiral of fruit within. Arrange on a warm platter, overlapping slightly. Spoon the pan sauce over the slices or serve it alongside in a gravy boat. Garnish with fresh herb sprigs if the occasion calls for it. Bring the platter to the table with ceremony. This roast deserves an audience.

Chef Tips

• •Select a center-cut pork loin for the most uniform shape and easiest butterflying. Avoid the tapered end pieces, which cook unevenly and are difficult to roll.
• •The quality of your dried fruit matters enormously here. Seek out plump, moist specimens from a store with high turnover. Dried-out fruit from the back of your pantry will remain tough and chewy even after cooking.
• •If you're feeding a larger crowd, this recipe doubles beautifully. Prepare two roasts rather than one enormous one for more even cooking and easier carving.
• •Serve with roasted root vegetables, creamy polenta, or simple mashed potatoes. The sweet-savory nature of the filling pairs wonderfully with something starchy and mild.
• •An off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer complements the fruit beautifully, as does a Côtes du Rhône or Oregon Pinot Noir if you prefer red. The pairing of pork and slightly sweet wine has centuries of tradition behind it.
• •Leftovers make exceptional sandwiches. Slice thin, pile on crusty bread with grain mustard and arugula.

Advance Preparation

• •The fruit filling can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container.
• •The entire roast can be stuffed, tied, and refrigerated overnight. This makes Christmas morning considerably less hectic and actually improves the final flavor.
• •The roast can be seared up to 4 hours ahead, then refrigerated. Add 10-15 minutes to roasting time if cooking from cold.
• •Pan sauce can be made through the reduction stage, then reheated and finished with butter just before serving.
• •Leftover roast keeps refrigerated for 4 days. Reheat slices gently in the pan sauce over low heat, or serve cold in sandwiches.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 450g)