
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A fat garden marrow, halved and filled with savoury mushrooms, rice, and herbs, baked until the cheese goes golden and the kitchen smells like late summer settling into something warm and good.
Late August, and the marrows have arrived. Not gracefully, not in modest quantities, but with the blunt insistence of something that grew while you weren't looking. One day the courgette plant is producing slim, mannerly fruits. The next, there's a pale green torpedo hiding under the leaves that weighs more than the cat.
This is what you do with it. Halve it, scoop out the seeds, fill it with something savoury and good, and let the oven do the thinking. The filling here is mushrooms and rice and tomatoes, cooked down with garlic and thyme until it smells like the sort of evening where nobody checks the time. No meat. The mushrooms give you that deep, savoury warmth, and the tomatoes bring sweetness and body. A handful of grated Cheddar over the top goes golden and crisp while the marrow softens underneath into something almost silky.
The whole thing takes about an hour in the oven, which is exactly the right amount of time to set the table, pour a glass of something, and let the kitchen fill with the smell of a meal that's looking after itself. We're only making dinner.
I wrote it down in the notebook last September: marrow, mushrooms, rain on the window. Some recipes record the weather as much as the food.
Quantity
1 large, about 1.5kg
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
2 cloves
finely chopped
Quantity
250g
finely chopped
Quantity
400g tin
Quantity
150g
Quantity
a few sprigs
leaves picked
Quantity
a small bunch
roughly chopped
Quantity
60g
grated
Quantity
25g
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| marrow | 1 large, about 1.5kg |
| olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| garlicfinely chopped | 2 cloves |
| chestnut mushroomsfinely chopped | 250g |
| chopped tomatoes | 400g tin |
| cooked rice | 150g |
| fresh thymeleaves picked | a few sprigs |
| flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | a small bunch |
| mature Cheddargrated | 60g |
| fresh breadcrumbs (optional) | 25g |
| salt and black pepper | to taste |
Set the oven to 190C/170C fan. Cut the marrow in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds and the soft, fibrous middle with a spoon. You want a generous hollow in each half, a boat waiting to be filled. Lay the halves cut-side up in a roasting tin, rub them with a little olive oil, and season well with salt and pepper. Put them in the oven for fifteen minutes while you make the filling. This head start softens the flesh and means everything finishes at the same time.
Warm the remaining olive oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook gently for eight to ten minutes until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and stir it through for a minute, just until it smells sweet rather than sharp. Now the mushrooms. They'll release their water and hiss in the pan. Let them cook without stirring too much, five or six minutes, until the moisture has gone and they've started to turn golden at the edges. This is where the savouriness lives. Don't rush it.
Pour in the tinned tomatoes and let everything simmer for ten minutes or so, stirring now and then, until the sauce has thickened and the pan smells deeply of tomato and thyme. Stir in the cooked rice, the thyme leaves, and most of the parsley, keeping a little back for later. Season well. Taste it. The filling should be savoury and full and just slightly more seasoned than you think it needs, because the marrow will absorb some of that as it bakes.
Take the marrow halves from the oven and spoon the filling generously into each hollow, pressing it down gently and mounding it slightly. Scatter the grated Cheddar and breadcrumbs over the top. Return to the oven for forty to forty-five minutes. You're looking for the marrow to be completely tender when you press its side with a spoon, the filling bubbling at the edges, and the cheese topping gone golden and crisp in patches. Let it sit for five minutes before serving. Scatter the remaining parsley over the top. A green salad alongside and some bread to mop up the juices is all you need.
1 serving (about 440g)
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