Struffoli

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy deep pot for frying (at least 4 inches deep)
• •Candy or deep-fry thermometer
• •Large wide pot or deep skillet for honey coating
• •Slotted spoon
• •Large serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the dough

   Mound the flour on a wooden board or clean work surface. Create a well in the center, deep enough to hold the eggs without spilling. Crack the eggs into the well. Add the softened butter, sugar, lemon zest, orange zest, limoncello, and salt to the eggs. With a fork, beat the eggs and other ingredients together, gradually drawing flour from the inner walls of the well. When the mixture becomes too thick for the fork, use your hands.

   Work on a wooden surface if possible. The slight friction of wood helps develop the dough. A cold marble counter makes the dough resistant and difficult to work.
2. 2

   Knead until smooth

   Knead the dough with the heel of your hand, pushing it away from you, folding it back, and rotating it a quarter turn. Continue for 8 to 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, soft, and no longer sticky. It should feel like your earlobe when pressed. If the dough feels too dry, wet your hands slightly and continue. If too sticky, dust with the smallest amount of flour. Wrap in plastic and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

3. 3

   Shape the struffoli

   Divide the rested dough into eight pieces. Keep the pieces you are not working with covered. Roll each piece between your palms and the work surface into a rope about one-half inch thick. With a sharp knife, cut the rope into small pieces the size of chickpeas or hazelnuts. Roll each piece between your palms to form a smooth ball. Place the balls on a lightly floured tray, not touching. This takes time. Call the family to help.

   The size must be consistent. Uneven pieces fry at different rates, and you will have some burnt and some undercooked. Take your time. In Naples, this is when the generations gather around the table and talk.
4. 4

   Fry in batches

   Pour the oil into a deep heavy pot to a depth of at least three inches. Heat to 350°F (175°C). Use a thermometer. Guessing the temperature leads to greasy or burnt struffoli. Fry the balls in small batches, no more than two dozen at a time. They will sink, then rise. Stir them gently with a slotted spoon to fry evenly. When golden brown all over, about 2 to 3 minutes, remove to a tray lined with paper towels. Let the oil return to temperature between batches.

5. 5

   Prepare the honey

   In a large wide pot or deep skillet, warm the honey over medium-low heat. Do not let it boil. The honey should be warm enough to flow easily but not so hot that it darkens or burns. Test a drop on your wrist: warm, not scalding. This is essential. Overheated honey becomes bitter and turns the struffoli an unpleasant dark color.

   Wildflower or acacia honey gives the most delicate flavor. Avoid strongly flavored honeys like chestnut or buckwheat, which overwhelm the citrus in the dough.
6. 6

   Coat with honey

   Add the fried struffoli to the warm honey. Stir gently with a wooden spoon, turning them over and over until each piece is coated and glistening. Work carefully. The balls are fragile. Add about three-quarters of the candied peels and stir again to distribute them throughout. Remove the pot from the heat.

7. 7

   Form and decorate

   Working quickly before the honey sets, turn the struffoli onto a serving plate. Wet your hands with cold water and shape them into a mound, a ring, or a wreath. The cold water prevents the honey from sticking to your skin. Scatter the remaining candied peels over the top. Shower with the colored nonpareils. Let cool completely at room temperature. Do not refrigerate.

   A ring shape is traditional, formed around an upturned glass in the center of the plate. After the struffoli set, remove the glass. Some families shape them into a Christmas tree for the children.

Chef Tips

• •The colored nonpareils are called diavulilli in Naples, 'little devils.' They come in festive colors and are essential to the look of proper struffoli. Plain white sprinkles will not do.
• •If you cannot find candied citron, substitute candied lemon peel. What matters is the bittersweet contrast to the honey. The best Italian grocers carry proper candied peels in whole pieces you can dice yourself.
• •Struffoli keep for over a week at room temperature, covered loosely with plastic wrap. The honey acts as a preservative. Never refrigerate them. Cold makes the dough rubbery and the honey turns cloudy.
• •Some families add a splash of anise liqueur to the dough instead of limoncello. Both are correct. Use what your grandmother used, or what you prefer.

Advance Preparation

• •The dough can be made one day ahead and refrigerated, wrapped tightly. Bring to room temperature before rolling.
• •The struffoli can be fried up to 4 hours ahead and left at room temperature. Coat with honey just before serving, or they will become too soft.
• •Once assembled, struffoli keep well at room temperature for 7 to 10 days, though they rarely last that long.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 125g)