Steirisches Kürbiskernbrot (Styrian Pumpkin Seed Bread)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large mixing bowl
• •Heavy-bottomed frying pan (for toasting seeds)
• •Baking sheet
• •Sharp knife or bread lame (for scoring)
• •Small roasting tin (for oven moisture)
• •Wire cooling rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Toast the pumpkin seeds

   Spread 200g of the pumpkin seeds in a dry pan over medium heat. Stir them constantly for three to four minutes until they start to pop and crackle and the kitchen smells like roasted nuts. Some will puff up and turn slightly lighter. Pull them off the heat the moment you smell toasting, not burning. There's a narrow window. Let them cool while you build the dough. This step is not optional. Raw seeds in bread taste flat. Toasted seeds taste like Styria.

   The seeds will pop and jump. Don't panic. Keep stirring and lower the heat if they're going too fast. One burned seed won't ruin the batch, but a whole pan of scorched seeds means starting over.
2. 2

   Mix the dough

   In a large bowl, combine the bread flour, rye flour, salt, and dried yeast. Stir them together with your hand so the salt and yeast aren't sitting directly on top of each other. Make a well in the center. Add the honey, Kürbiskernöl, cider vinegar, and lukewarm water. The vinegar does two things: it helps the rye ferment properly and it keeps the crumb tender. Mix with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together into a shaggy, sticky mass. It won't look pretty yet. That's fine.

3. 3

   Knead the dough

   Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for eight to ten minutes. This dough has rye in it, so it will feel different from a pure wheat dough. It will be tackier, denser, less elastic. Don't fight it by adding too much flour. A damp hand works better than a floury one. You're looking for a dough that holds together smoothly and springs back slowly when you press it with your finger. When you're nearly done kneading, work in the toasted pumpkin seeds. Fold and press until they're distributed evenly throughout.

   Rye dough will never feel as springy as pure wheat dough. It stays a bit sticky and dense. That's the nature of rye flour, which has less gluten. If you knead in too much extra flour trying to make it behave like wheat, your bread will be dry and heavy.
4. 4

   First rise

   Shape the dough into a rough ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave it in a warm spot for one and a half to two hours. The dough should roughly double in size, though rye breads rise less dramatically than white loaves. Don't rush this. The long rise develops the flavor. If your kitchen is cold, place the bowl on top of the oven with the light on, or near a warm window.

5. 5

   Shape the loaf

   Turn the risen dough out onto your work surface. Press it down gently to release the large gas bubbles, then shape it into a tight oval or round. Work the surface taut by tucking the dough under itself with cupped hands, turning it as you go. The seeds will poke through the surface. That's what you want. Place the loaf on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

6. 6

   Seed the crust

   Brush the top of the loaf lightly with water. Take the remaining 40g of raw pumpkin seeds and press them firmly into the top and sides of the loaf. Be generous and press hard enough that they stick. These seeds will toast in the oven and become the first thing anyone sees and smells when the bread comes out. Score the top with a sharp knife or a razor blade, two or three slashes about a centimeter deep. The slashes let the loaf expand without cracking in random places.

7. 7

   Second rise

   Cover the shaped loaf loosely with a tea towel and let it rise for another thirty to forty minutes. It won't double again. You're looking for the dough to relax and puff slightly, and for the scores to open just a bit. While it rises, preheat your oven to 220°C (430°F) with a small roasting tin on the bottom rack. You'll need that tin in a moment.

8. 8

   Bake the bread

   When the oven is fully hot, pour a cup of water into the roasting tin on the bottom rack. The burst of moisture in the first minutes of baking is what gives the crust its crackle and shine. Slide the loaf in on the middle rack. Bake at 220°C for fifteen minutes, then reduce to 190°C (375°F) and bake for another twenty-five to thirty minutes. The bread is done when the crust is deep brown, the seeds on top are toasted golden-green, and the loaf sounds hollow when you tap the bottom. If it sounds dull and thuddy, give it five more minutes.

   That hollow knock on the bottom is the most reliable test for bread. Pick the loaf up with an oven glove, flip it, and rap it with your knuckles. A finished loaf sounds like a drum. An underbaked loaf sounds like a book.
9. 9

   Cool and serve

   Transfer the bread to a wire rack and let it cool completely before slicing. This is the hardest part. The bread is still cooking inside from residual heat, and if you cut into it now the crumb will be gummy and the texture won't set properly. Give it at least an hour. Then cut a thick slice, spread it with good butter, and eat it standing at the kitchen counter the way every Austrian does with the first piece of fresh bread. Mahlzeit!

Chef Tips

• •Look for Styrian hull-less pumpkin seeds specifically. They're dark green, almost black, and smaller than regular pumpkin seeds. If you can't find them locally, Austrian food shops online carry them. Regular pumpkin seeds with the white hull are a different ingredient entirely and won't give you the right flavor or color.
• •If you can get your hands on Kürbiskernöl, use it. The oil is dark green, viscous, and tastes intensely of roasted pumpkin seeds. It deepens the bread's flavor in a way olive oil can't replicate. A little goes a long way. Don't heat it, just stir it into the dough raw.
• •This bread keeps beautifully. Wrap it in a clean linen cloth and store it at room temperature for three to four days. The rye flour helps it stay moist longer than a pure wheat loaf. It also freezes well. Slice it before freezing so you can pull out pieces as you need them.
• •Gretel always said that bread tells you about a region faster than any guidebook. In Vienna, the Semmel. In Tyrol, the Schüttelbrot. In Styria, this: dark seeds, rye flour, and the smell of Kernöl. One slice and you know where you are.

Advance Preparation

• •The dough can be mixed and left for its first rise in the fridge overnight, up to 12 hours. A slow cold rise develops more complex, slightly sour flavor from the rye. Pull it out an hour before shaping to take the chill off.
• •Pumpkin seeds can be toasted up to three days ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature. They lose their crunch if exposed to humidity, so keep them sealed.
• •The finished loaf freezes well for up to two months. Slice before freezing. Individual slices thaw in ten minutes at room temperature or can go straight into the toaster.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 85g)