
Chef Elsa
Eiersalat (Austrian Egg Salad)
Cool, creamy Austrian egg salad with sour gherkins and tart apple in a mustard-yogurt dressing, the kind of honest Jause food that tastes like an Austrian Easter table and works beautifully all year round.
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Extrawurst strips and thin-sliced onions dressed with cider vinegar and drizzled with Styria's dark, nutty Kürbiskernöl. Cold, simple, and so purely Styrian you can taste the postcode.
The first time I saw Steirisches Kürbiskernöl, I thought someone had spilled something on my plate. I was maybe ten, sitting at a Buschenschank outside Graz on one of our summer trips, and Gretel ordered a Wurstsalat. When it arrived, the sausage strips were sitting in a pool of something so dark green it looked nearly black. Gretel caught me staring. 'Taste it,' she said. So I did. Nutty, rich, faintly sweet, with a finish that stayed on the back of my tongue for minutes. That was the afternoon I understood that Styria has its own kitchen, and this oil is the heart of it.
Wurstsalat mit Kernöl is not complicated food. You take good Extrawurst, a smooth, lightly smoked sausage that every Austrian child grows up eating on bread, and you cut it into thin strips. Toss it with onion rings, dress the whole thing with cider vinegar thinned with a splash of water, season it, and let it sit for half an hour so the onions soften and the vinegar soaks into the meat. Then, only then, you pour the Kernöl over everything. Dark and glossy, pooling between the strips, turning a plate of cold sausage into something that could only come from one region on earth.
This is the salad you'll find at every Buschenschank and Heuriger across Styria, set out on a wooden board alongside bread and a glass of Schilcher. It asks almost nothing of you in the kitchen. What it asks instead is that you find the right oil and the right sausage, and that you leave them alone to do their work. Good Austrian home cooking has always been about that: a few honest ingredients, treated simply, tasting exactly like where they come from.
Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A. received its protected geographical indication from the European Union in 1996, certifying that authentic pumpkin seed oil can only be produced from Cucurbita pepo var. styriaca, a hull-less pumpkin seed variety unique to southern Styria. The mutation that produced these shell-less seeds appeared in the 18th century, eliminating the laborious step of hulling and making large-scale pressing practical for the first time. Wurstsalat dressed with Kernöl became a fixture of Styrian Buschenschänke, the seasonal wine taverns where farmers serve their own wine alongside cold platters of sausage, cheese, and bread, and it remains one of the dishes Styrians point to when they want to show you what makes their cooking different from Vienna's.
Quantity
400g
in one piece if possible
Quantity
1 medium
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
freshly ground, to taste
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
4
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for finishing
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Extrawurstin one piece if possible | 400g |
| white onion | 1 medium |
| Apfelessig (apple cider vinegar) | 3 tablespoons |
| cold water | 2 tablespoons |
| fine salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| black pepper | freshly ground, to taste |
| Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A. | 3 tablespoons |
| Essiggurkerl (small pickled gherkins) (optional)thinly sliced | 4 |
| roasted pumpkin seeds (optional)for finishing | 1 tablespoon |
| Bauernbrot or dark rye bread | for serving |
Peel the casing from the Extrawurst if it has one. Cut the sausage in half lengthwise, then slice each half into strips about half a centimeter wide and five centimeters long. You're after neat, even strips that will catch the dressing and lie flat on the plate. If your deli counter already sliced the Extrawurst into rounds, stack three or four and cut them into strips. Either way works. Drop the strips into a large mixing bowl.
Peel the onion, halve it through the root, and slice it into thin half-rings. You want them fine enough that they soften in the marinade but thick enough to still have some bite after thirty minutes. About two millimeters. If you're adding Essiggurkerl, slice them thinly on the diagonal and add them to the bowl with the sausage and onions.
Whisk together the Apfelessig, cold water, salt, and a few good grinds of black pepper. The water matters. Straight vinegar would be too aggressive and you'd lose the sausage under all that acid. The splash of water rounds the dressing out, letting the vinegar do its work without shouting. Pour the dressing over the sausage and onions and toss everything together with your hands or two forks until every strip is coated. Cover and let it sit at room temperature for thirty minutes. Don't skip this. The onions need time to relax, the sausage needs time to absorb, and the flavors need time to become a salad instead of a collection of ingredients.
When the salad has marinated, give it one final toss and taste for salt and vinegar. Adjust if you need to. Divide the salad among plates or pile it onto a serving platter. Now pour the Kürbiskernöl over the top in a slow, generous drizzle. Don't stir it in. Let it pool and streak across the surface, dark green and glossy against the pale sausage. Scatter the roasted pumpkin seeds over the top if you have them. Serve with thick slices of Bauernbrot for mopping up the oil and vinegar at the bottom of the plate. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 185g)
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