
Chef Takumi
Bamboo Shoot and Wakame Salad (若竹和え, Wakatake-ae)
Two spring things meet here: pale bamboo shoot, green wakame, and a vinegar-miso dressing thin enough to let both speak. The work is sourcing, then restraint.
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Nasu no nibitashi is summer eggplant at its most generous: fried just enough to collapse into silk, then left to drink a clear soy-dashi broth.
Eggplant is a summer vegetable with a greedy little heart. Give it oil and it softens. Give it dashi afterward and it drinks, turning glossy, cool, and deeper than the few ingredients suggest.
This is the part people mistrust. Frying sounds heavy, and eggplant can swallow oil like a student with a stipend. The answer is not fear, only heat. Score the skin, fry the pieces cut-side down first, then turn them just until the purple skin brightens and the flesh slackens. Hot oil sets the surface quickly, so the eggplant softens without becoming greasy. There is nothing hidden here.
Then comes the nibitashi, a simmered-steeped dish. We warm dashi with soy, mirin, and a little sake, then let the fried eggplant rest in it off the heat. That rest is the one detail that decides it. Eat it too soon and you taste broth beside eggplant. Wait an hour and they have become one dish, quiet enough for a weeknight, good enough to sit beside rice, soup, and something grilled.
Serve it warm, room temperature, or cold from the refrigerator next morning. In high summer I like it cold, with grated ginger and a small scatter of scallion. Leave it room in the bowl. The shine of the broth and the purple skin will do the speaking.
Nibitashi belongs to the broader family of ohitashi and nimono, dishes in which cooked vegetables are seasoned by resting in a prepared broth rather than being sauced at the table. Eggplant became widely cultivated in Japan by the Edo period, and regional varieties such as Kamo nasu in Kyoto and Mizu nasu in Osaka show how closely the vegetable was tied to local summer cooking. The dish is especially common in home kitchens and small set meals, where it can be made ahead and served cool.
Quantity
4 (about 450g)
Quantity
about 1/2 cup
for shallow frying
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
made with konbu and katsuobushi, or konbu and dried shiitake for a meatless table
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
grated
Quantity
2
thinly sliced
Quantity
a small handful
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Japanese eggplants | 4 (about 450g) |
| neutral oilfor shallow frying | about 1/2 cup |
| dashimade with konbu and katsuobushi, or konbu and dried shiitake for a meatless table | 1 1/2 cups |
| soy sauce | 3 tablespoons |
| mirin | 2 tablespoons |
| sake | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| fresh gingergrated | 1 tablespoon |
| scallionsthinly sliced | 2 |
| katsuobushi (optional) | a small handful |
Trim the stems, then cut each eggplant in half lengthwise. Score the skin on the diagonal every 1/4 inch, cutting shallowly so the pieces stay whole. The scoring lets heat enter quickly and gives the broth little paths to settle into later.
In a small saucepan, combine the dashi, soy sauce, mirin, sake, and sugar if using. Bring it just to a simmer, then turn off the heat. Taste it now. It should be a little stronger than soup, because the eggplant will soften it as it rests.
Heat 1/2 inch of oil in a wide pan to about 170 C or 340 F. Add the eggplant cut-side down and fry until the flesh turns pale gold at the edges, about 2 minutes. Turn and fry the skin side until the purple brightens and the eggplant bends softly when lifted, about 1 to 2 minutes more.
Lift the eggplant onto a rack or paper towel for a minute, then place it in the warm broth, skin-side up if you want the color to show. Spoon broth over the tops. Let it rest at least 1 hour, turning once if the pieces are not fully submerged.
Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled. Spoon a little broth into each bowl, arrange two eggplant halves with space around them, and finish with grated ginger, scallion, and katsuobushi if using. The ginger sharpens the soft eggplant, and the scallion gives the eye a little green.
1 serving (about 230g)
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