
Chef Dimitra
Amygdalota Hydras kai Androu (Αμυγδαλωτά Ύδρας και Άνδρου)
Hydra and Andros give amygdalota their island surname: ground almond, sugar, egg white, and rosewater, baked pale so the center stays soft as marzipan.
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Ierapetra's stafidota are soft Cretan raisin cookies, olive-oil dough folded around walnuts, orange, and cinnamon, then sealed shut so the filling bakes plump instead of dry.
Stafidota Ierapetras are the raisin cookies of Ierapetra in Lasithi, Crete: soft olive-oil pastry folded over a dark filling of raisins, walnuts, sesame, orange, and cinnamon. They are not syrup sweets. They are not little cakes. They are the kind of cookie that waits on the tray and tastes even better after a day.
The whole cookie depends on the seal. The raisin filling must be chopped into a sticky paste, then the dough is folded thinly around it and pressed closed without flour in the seam. If the edge opens, the raisins dry. Seal it properly and the filling stays juicy, which is exactly what makes this Ierapetra sweet itself.
The dough is nistisimo, made with olive oil, orange juice, and a little tsikoudia, no butter and no eggs. I keep the sweetness modest because the raisin does the work. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, and this one deserves the plain numbers that let a first tray come out like it belongs on a Cretan table.
Stafidota take their name from stafida, raisin, and the Ierapetra version belongs to the household pastry tradition of Lasithi on Crete's southeastern coast. In Cretan village kitchens, dried grapes, walnuts, sesame, orange, and cinnamon made a filling that kept well before sweets depended on butter or cream. Because the pastry uses olive oil and no eggs or dairy, it also fits the Orthodox fasting table, though in Ierapetra it is just as much a celebration cookie.
Quantity
350g
preferably Cretan sultanas or dark raisins
Quantity
80ml
warmed, for soaking
Quantity
30ml
for soaking
Quantity
120g
finely chopped
Quantity
30g
lightly toasted
Quantity
35g
Quantity
40g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely grated, for the filling
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
500g
plus a little for rolling
Quantity
80g
Quantity
10g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
120ml
preferably Cretan Koroneiki
Quantity
120ml
for the dough
Quantity
60ml
for the dough
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely grated, for the dough
Quantity
25g
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| seedless raisins (stafides)preferably Cretan sultanas or dark raisins | 350g |
| fresh orange juicewarmed, for soaking | 80ml |
| tsikoudia, Cretan rakifor soaking | 30ml |
| walnutsfinely chopped | 120g |
| sesame seedslightly toasted | 30g |
| fine barley rusk crumbs or dry breadcrumbs | 35g |
| petimezi (grape molasses) or Cretan thyme honey | 40g |
| orange zestfinely grated, for the filling | 1 tablespoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| ground cloves | 1/4 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flourplus a little for rolling | 500g |
| granulated sugar | 80g |
| baking powder | 10g |
| baking soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oilpreferably Cretan Koroneiki | 120ml |
| fresh orange juicefor the dough | 120ml |
| tsikoudia or dry white winefor the dough | 60ml |
| orange zestfinely grated, for the dough | 1 tablespoon |
| icing sugar (optional)for dusting | 25g |
Put the raisins in a bowl and pour over the warm orange juice and tsikoudia. Let them stand for 20 minutes, until they soften and shine. If the raisins are dry and stubborn, give them another 10 minutes. A good stafidoto starts with a raisin that still has life in it.
Drain the raisins only if liquid is pooling in the bowl, then pulse them in a food processor until they become a coarse, sticky paste, not a smooth puree. Scrape into a bowl and mix in the walnuts, sesame, rusk crumbs, petimezi or honey, orange zest, cinnamon, and cloves. The filling should hold together when pressed between your fingers. If it smears wet, add 1 tablespoon more crumbs. If it crumbles, add 1 teaspoon orange juice.
Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a wide bowl. In another bowl whisk the olive oil, orange juice, tsikoudia, and orange zest, then pour the liquid into the flour. Mix with your hand until the dough comes together, then knead only 8 or 10 turns, just until smooth. Olive-oil dough gets tough if you bully it. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 180 C and line two baking sheets with parchment. Roll half the dough on a lightly floured surface to about 3mm thick. Cut rounds with a 9cm cutter or the rim of a glass, then gather the scraps gently. Keep the remaining dough covered so it stays pliable.
Set 1 level tablespoon of filling, about 18g, just off center on each round. Fold the dough over into a half-moon and press the edge closed firmly with dry fingers, then crimp with a fork or pinch the rim. This is the step that decides the cookie. If flour sits on the edge, brush it away or touch the rim with a damp fingertip, because a dusty edge will open in the oven and the raisin filling will dry. Sealed well, the inside stays juicy.
Arrange the stafidota 3cm apart on the trays. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, rotating the trays once, until the bottoms are lightly golden and the tops are set but still pale. Don't chase a dark color here. These are soft Cretan cookies, not hard rusks.
Let the cookies cool on the tray for 10 minutes, then move them to a rack. Dust with icing sugar only when fully cool. They are good the same day, better the next, when the orange, cinnamon, and raisin settle into the pastry.
1 serving (about 50g)
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