Spongata di Brescello

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •10-inch tart pan with removable bottom
• •Rolling pin
• •Baking sheet for toasting nuts
• •Medium saucepan
• •Fine-mesh sieve for dusting sugar

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the pastry

   Place the flour, sugar, salt, and lemon zest in a large bowl. Add the cold butter cubes and work with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse sand, with some pea-sized pieces remaining. This takes five minutes of steady work. Add the egg yolks and whole egg, then the wine. Mix with a fork until the dough begins to come together, then gather it with your hands and press into a disc. Do not overwork. The dough should be smooth but not elastic. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least one hour.

   Cold butter and minimal handling produce tender pastry. The moment the dough holds together, stop working it. Overworked pastry becomes tough and shrinks when baked.
2. 2

   Toast the nuts

   While the dough rests, spread the almonds, walnuts, and pine nuts on a baking sheet in a single layer. Toast in a 325°F (165°C) oven for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring once, until fragrant and lightly golden. The pine nuts will brown faster than the others; watch them carefully. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool completely, then chop coarsely. You want irregular pieces, some large, some small.

3. 3

   Prepare the filling

   Warm the honey in a medium saucepan over low heat until it becomes fluid and pourable, about two minutes. Remove from heat. Add the breadcrumbs and stir until absorbed. The mixture will be thick and pasty. Add all the spices: the cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and black pepper. Stir well. Add the chopped toasted nuts and the candied citrus peel. Mix thoroughly until everything is coated with the honey mixture. The filling should be dense, sticky, and fragrant with spice. Let it cool to room temperature.

   The black pepper is not a mistake. Medieval sweets often included pepper, and in spongata it provides a subtle warmth that lifts the honey sweetness. Do not omit it.
4. 4

   Roll the pastry

   Divide the chilled dough into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other. On a lightly floured surface, roll the larger piece into a circle about 13 inches in diameter and no thicker than 3 millimeters, about one-eighth inch. The pastry should be thin enough to almost see through. Transfer to a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, pressing gently into the corners. Leave the excess hanging over the edges for now.

5. 5

   Fill the tart

   Spoon the cooled filling into the pastry-lined pan and spread it evenly with a spatula or the back of a spoon. Press gently to compact the filling; there should be no air pockets. The filling should reach about three-quarters of an inch from the top edge of the pastry.

6. 6

   Cover and seal

   Roll the remaining dough into an 11-inch circle, the same thinness as the bottom crust. Drape it over the filling. Fold the overhanging edges of the bottom crust up and over the top crust, pressing to seal and crimping with your fingers or a fork. The seal must be complete; any gaps and the honey will bubble out during baking. Cut four or five small slits in the top to allow steam to escape. Brush the entire surface with the egg wash.

7. 7

   Bake until golden

   Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350°F (175°C). Bake the spongata for 30 to 35 minutes, until the crust is deep golden brown and the filling visible through the slits is bubbling gently. The pastry should be crisp and dry to the touch. If the edges brown too quickly, cover them loosely with foil. Remove from the oven and let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.

   Complete cooling is essential. The filling firms as it cools, and cutting while warm creates a sticky mess. Patience is not optional here.
8. 8

   Finish and serve

   Once completely cool, remove the tart from the pan. Dust the top generously with confectioners' sugar, shaken through a fine sieve. Cut into thin wedges with a sharp knife; the filling is dense and resists cutting. Serve at room temperature. The contrast of shattering pastry against chewy, spiced filling is the whole point of this dessert.

Chef Tips

• •Candied citrus peel of good quality matters. The supermarket variety in plastic tubs is acceptable but inferior. If you can find Italian cedro (citron), use it. Otherwise, a mixture of candied orange and lemon peel works well.
• •Acacia honey is traditional because its mild flavor allows the spices and nuts to come forward. Strong honeys like chestnut or buckwheat will dominate. Wildflower (millefiori) is a safe choice if acacia is unavailable.
• •Spongata improves over several days as the flavors meld and the filling softens the pastry slightly. In Brescello, families make it a week before Christmas. Store wrapped at room temperature, never refrigerated.
• •The spice proportions given here are authentic but adjustable to taste. Some families use a touch of anise or coriander. The pepper, however, is non-negotiable.

Advance Preparation

• •The pastry dough can be made two days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for one month. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before rolling.
• •The filling can be prepared one day ahead and stored covered at room temperature. It may stiffen; warm briefly over low heat to restore spreadability.
• •The finished spongata keeps beautifully for two weeks wrapped tightly at room temperature. It does not require refrigeration and should not be frozen.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 95g)