Southern Yellow Squash Casserole

Every church basement in the South knows this casserole. It appears at funerals and christenings, family reunions and Wednesday night suppers. Someone's aunt always makes it, and everyone knows whose aunt makes it best. This is that version.

The genius of squash casserole lies in its transformation. Yellow summer squash, that prolific garden visitor nobody quite knows what to do with by August, becomes something people fight over at the buffet table. The squash turns silky in a bath of sharp cheddar, sour cream, and sautéed onions. The Ritz cracker topping provides the contrast that makes the dish sing.

The secret most recipes won't tell you is this: you must cook the moisture out of the squash before it goes into the casserole. Skip this step and you'll have soup. Take the time to sweat those coins in a covered pot, then drain them properly, and you'll understand why this dish has survived three generations of Southern cooks who don't suffer mediocre food.