
Chef Dean
Amish Buttered Egg Noodles
The humblest side dish in the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition, where wide egg noodles and good butter need nothing more than salt and a warm bowl to become the thing everyone remembers from the church supper.
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The undisputed queen of the Southern covered dish supper: tender summer squash folded into a silky cheese sauce, blanketed with shatteringly crisp buttered cracker crumbs that shatter at first bite.
Every church basement in the South knows this casserole. It appears at funerals and christenings, family reunions and Wednesday night suppers. Someone's aunt always makes it, and everyone knows whose aunt makes it best. This is that version.
The genius of squash casserole lies in its transformation. Yellow summer squash, that prolific garden visitor nobody quite knows what to do with by August, becomes something people fight over at the buffet table. The squash turns silky in a bath of sharp cheddar, sour cream, and sautéed onions. The Ritz cracker topping provides the contrast that makes the dish sing.
The secret most recipes won't tell you is this: you must cook the moisture out of the squash before it goes into the casserole. Skip this step and you'll have soup. Take the time to sweat those coins in a covered pot, then drain them properly, and you'll understand why this dish has survived three generations of Southern cooks who don't suffer mediocre food.
Quantity
2 1/2 pounds (about 6 medium)
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
divided
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
2
lightly beaten
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
8 ounces (about 2 cups)
grated
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 sleeve (about 35 crackers)
crushed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
minced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| yellow summer squash | 2 1/2 pounds (about 6 medium) |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| unsalted butterdivided | 4 tablespoons |
| kosher saltdivided | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| large eggslightly beaten | 2 |
| sour cream | 1 cup |
| sharp cheddar cheesegrated | 8 ounces (about 2 cups) |
| cayenne pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| Ritz crackerscrushed | 1 sleeve (about 35 crackers) |
| fresh chives (optional)minced | 2 tablespoons |
Trim the ends from your squash and slice into quarter-inch coins. Uniformity matters here because you want them to cook evenly. Pile the coins into a large pot or Dutch oven with a half cup of water and one teaspoon of salt. Cover tightly.
Set the pot over medium-high heat and cook until the squash is completely tender when pierced with a fork, about twelve to fifteen minutes. The coins should offer no resistance whatsoever. Undercooked squash refuses to meld into the casserole properly.
Drain the squash in a colander set over the sink. Press gently with the back of a spoon to encourage moisture release, but don't mash them into oblivion. Let them drain for at least ten minutes while you prepare the other components. This step is not optional. Waterlogged squash makes a soggy casserole.
While the squash drains, melt two tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent with golden edges, about eight minutes. The onion should be sweet, not brown. Season with the remaining half teaspoon of salt and the black pepper.
Preheat your oven to 350°F. In a large mixing bowl, combine the drained squash with the sautéed onions. Add the beaten eggs, sour cream, one and a half cups of the grated cheddar, and the cayenne. Fold everything together until thoroughly combined. The mixture should look creamy and cohesive, speckled with cheese.
Melt the remaining two tablespoons of butter in a small saucepan or microwave. Crush the Ritz crackers in their sleeve using a rolling pin, or pulse briefly in a food processor. Toss the crumbs with the melted butter and the remaining half cup of cheese until everything is evenly coated.
Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish or a two-quart casserole. Spread the squash mixture evenly into the prepared dish. Scatter the buttered cracker topping over the surface in an even layer, pressing down gently. Every bite deserves its share of crunch.
Bake uncovered for forty to forty-five minutes, until the topping is deeply golden brown and the edges bubble with enthusiasm. The center should be set, not jiggly. A knife inserted in the middle should come out clean. Let rest for ten minutes before serving. This allows the custard to firm slightly and makes serving easier.
1 serving (about 285g)
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