Southern Tea Cakes

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Stand mixer or hand mixer
• •Rolling pin
• •2 1/2 to 3-inch round biscuit cutter
• •Two rimmed baking sheets
• •Parchment paper
• •Wire cooling rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Combine dry ingredients

   Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside. The nutmeg should be freshly grated if possible. Pre-ground nutmeg loses its essential oils within weeks of opening, leaving you with sawdust flavor instead of that warm, slightly sweet spice note that defines a proper tea cake.

2. 2

   Cream butter and sugar

   In a large bowl or stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Add the sugar and beat for 3 full minutes, scraping down the sides twice. The mixture should turn pale and fluffy, almost white in color. This step incorporates air and begins dissolving the sugar into the fat, creating that tender crumb tea cakes are known for.

   Truly room temperature butter (68-70°F) is essential. It should give slightly when pressed but hold its shape. Cold butter won't cream properly; overly soft butter won't trap air.
3. 3

   Add eggs and flavorings

   Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition until fully incorporated. The mixture may look slightly curdled after the first egg. Don't worry. Add the vanilla extract and milk, beating until smooth. The batter will come together and look glossy.

4. 4

   Mix the dough

   Reduce mixer speed to low and add the flour mixture in three additions, mixing just until each addition disappears. Stop the moment you no longer see dry flour. Overmixing develops gluten and turns tender tea cakes into tough ones. The dough will be soft and slightly sticky but should hold together when pressed.

5. 5

   Chill the dough

   Divide the dough in half and shape each portion into a flat disk about 1 inch thick. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Cold dough rolls cleanly without sticking and holds its shape in the oven. This resting period also allows the flour to fully hydrate, improving both texture and flavor.

   Wrapped dough keeps refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for 3 months. Thaw frozen dough overnight in the refrigerator before rolling.
6. 6

   Prepare for baking

   Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of your oven and preheat to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Remove one disk of dough from the refrigerator and let it rest at room temperature for 5 minutes. Too cold and it will crack when rolled; too warm and it will stick to everything.

7. 7

   Roll and cut

   Lightly flour your work surface and rolling pin. Roll the dough to 1/4-inch thickness, rotating a quarter turn after each pass to maintain an even circle and prevent sticking. Cut rounds using a 2 1/2 to 3-inch biscuit cutter or drinking glass. Transfer to prepared baking sheets, spacing cookies 1 inch apart. These don't spread much. Gather scraps gently, press together, re-roll once, and cut remaining cookies.

   Traditional tea cakes are thick and soft. For a crisper edge, roll to 1/8-inch thickness. Both versions are authentic depending on whose grandmother you're asking.
8. 8

   Bake until pale golden

   Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pans front to back and switching racks halfway through. Tea cakes are done when the edges just begin to turn the palest gold and the centers look set but not brown. They should appear slightly underdone. The cookies will firm as they cool. Overbaking is the most common mistake. These are not meant to be crispy or deeply colored.

9. 9

   Cool completely

   Let cookies rest on the baking sheets for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. They're fragile when warm. Once cooled, they should have a soft, tender crumb that yields easily when bitten, with a subtle sweetness that doesn't overwhelm. Repeat with remaining dough.

Chef Tips

• •Nutmeg is traditional but divisive. Some families omit it entirely, others wouldn't dream of a tea cake without it. Start with half a teaspoon and adjust to your taste on the next batch. A little lemon zest makes a fine substitute if nutmeg isn't your preference.
• •The not-too-sweet nature of tea cakes is intentional, not a flaw. They were designed to accompany coffee or tea, to be eaten several at a time, to satisfy without overwhelming. Resist the urge to add more sugar.
• •Room temperature ingredients matter more here than in most cookies. Cold eggs can cause the creamed butter to seize, resulting in a denser cookie. Plan ahead.
• •A bench scraper is invaluable for lifting rolled dough and transferring cut cookies. It prevents the stretching and tearing that hands cause.
• •Tea cakes soften as they sit. If you prefer a slightly firmer texture, store them in an airtight container with the lid slightly ajar for the first day.

Advance Preparation

• •Dough can be made and refrigerated up to 3 days ahead. The flavor actually improves overnight as the flour fully hydrates.
• •Wrapped dough disks freeze beautifully for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before rolling.
• •Baked tea cakes keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week. They stay soft and tender.
• •For longer storage, freeze baked cookies in a single layer, then transfer to a freezer bag. They thaw at room temperature in 30 minutes.
• •Tea cakes ship well. Layer them with parchment in a sturdy tin for mailing to family far from home.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 cookie (about 26g)