
Chef Lupita
Camarones a la Diabla Nayaritas
Nayarit's Pacific shrimp, seared quickly and coated in a red sauce of chile de arbol, chipotle, tomato, and garlic, the kind of heat that belongs beside white rice and warm corn tortillas.
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Jalisco's weeknight fideo, toasted golden in manteca de cerdo, simmered until dry in jitomate and chile chipotle, then brought to the table in a Tonala cazuela.
Jalisco, especially the home kitchens of Guadalajara and the towns around Los Altos, knows how to turn a handful of fideo into a proper comida. This is sopa seca, not soup. The noodles drink the jitomate and chile chipotle until the pan goes quiet and every strand is stained red-orange. That is the point.
The defining step is the toasting. You fry the fideo in manteca de cerdo until it smells nutty and turns the color of dry straw. If you pour sauce over pale noodles, they swell and taste flat. The women who perfected this dish knew economy and timing. A little pasta, a few saladet tomatoes, one chile chipotle adobado, good broth, and the family eats.
My mother made this on weeknights in Colonia Roma when she wanted Jalisco on the table without making pozole or birria. She wrote in her notebook: "que quede seco, no caldoso." Let it finish dry, not brothy. Serve it with crema mexicana and queso cotija, in a clay cazuela if you have one. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Fideo entered Mexican kitchens through Spanish wheat noodle traditions during the colonial period, but Mexican cooks made it their own by frying the pasta first and finishing it in a tomato and chile sauce. The technique of sopa seca, a dry cooked first course, appears in 19th-century Mexican household cookbooks alongside rice dishes and vermicelli preparations. In Jalisco, fideo seco became a practical comida casera dish because it used pantry noodles, local tomatoes, broth from the day's cooking, and dairy garnishes from the state's strong ranching culture.
Quantity
3 medium
cored and quartered
Quantity
1/4 medium
chopped
Quantity
2
peeled
Quantity
1
with 1 teaspoon adobo sauce
Quantity
2 cups
preferably homemade
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
8 ounces
broken into 1-inch pieces if long
Quantity
1 small sprig
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
crumbled
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
crumbled
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe saladet tomatoescored and quartered | 3 medium |
| white onionchopped | 1/4 medium |
| garlic clovespeeled | 2 |
| canned chile chipotle adobadowith 1 teaspoon adobo sauce | 1 |
| chicken brothpreferably homemade | 2 cups |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| manteca de cerdo | 2 tablespoons |
| thin fideo noodlesbroken into 1-inch pieces if long | 8 ounces |
| fresh epazote | 1 small sprig |
| dried Mexican oreganocrumbled | 1/4 teaspoon |
| crema mexicana (optional) | 1/3 cup |
| queso cotija (optional)crumbled | 1/2 cup |
| fresh cilantro (optional)chopped | 2 tablespoons |
| lime (optional)cut into wedges | 1 |
Put the saladet tomatoes, white onion, garlic, chile chipotle adobado, adobo sauce, chicken broth, and salt in a blender. Blend until completely smooth. The sauce should be loose and brick red. Do not leave chunks of tomato. The fideo needs an even liquid to cook properly.
Melt the manteca de cerdo in a wide 12-inch cazuela or heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the fideo and stir constantly for 5 to 7 minutes, until the noodles turn golden with some deeper brown edges. They should smell nutty, not burned. La manteca es el sabor, and the toasting is what keeps the noodles from turning pasty.
Pour the blended tomato-chipotle sauce into the pan. It will hiss hard when it hits the hot fat. Stir once, scraping the bottom so the toasted noodles loosen. Add the epazote and Mexican oregano. Let the sauce boil for 1 minute so the raw tomato flavor settles.
Lower the heat to medium-low, cover the pan, and cook for 10 to 12 minutes. Stir gently once halfway through. The noodles are ready when they are tender, the liquid has been absorbed, and the fideo holds together in soft spoonfuls without sitting in broth. Sopa seca means dry soup. The name tells you the technique.
Turn off the heat and let the covered pan rest for 5 minutes. This is when the last bit of sauce finishes moving through the noodles. Remove the epazote sprig. Taste for salt. If the broth was weak, you may need another pinch. No me vengas con atajos: bland broth makes bland fideo.
Spoon the fideo into a warm serving cazuela. Drizzle with crema mexicana, scatter queso cotija and cilantro over the top, and set lime wedges at the table. Serve immediately while the noodles are soft but still distinct. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 165g)
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