
Chef Dean
American Goulash
A Midwestern one-pot supper of seasoned ground beef, tender elbow macaroni, and tomatoes simmered into a thick, soul-satisfying stew. This is the dish that fed factory workers and farm families alike.
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Golden-crusted chicken pieces nestled in a silky gravy built from pounds of slow-cooked onions, the kind of honest Southern cooking that turns a weeknight into something worth remembering.
This dish tells the story of American home cooking at its most resourceful. African American cooks in the Deep South perfected smothered chicken generations ago, transforming inexpensive cuts into something magnificent through patience and technique. The gravy begins with onions, cooked low and slow until they surrender their sharpness and become almost sweet. The chicken browns first, building a fond on the pan bottom that will enrich every spoonful of that gravy. Then everything braises together, the meat absorbing the onion's essence while the gravy thickens to coat a spoon.
I've watched cooks argue about the proper ratio of onions to chicken. My position is simple: more onions. Always more onions. They cook down to nearly nothing, concentrating their flavor into the gravy. Three pounds sounds excessive until you see them melt into silk. Trust the process.
The beauty of smothered chicken lies in its forgiving nature. You cannot rush it, but you also cannot ruin it. Keep the heat gentle, check it occasionally, and the dish practically cooks itself. Serve it over rice to catch every drop of that gravy, or with buttermilk biscuits if you want to do it properly. Either way, make enough for seconds. There will be requests.
Quantity
4 pounds
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
3 pounds (about 6 large)
halved and thinly sliced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
2 stalks
diced
Quantity
3 cups
Quantity
2
Quantity
for garnish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces (thighs and drumsticks) | 4 pounds |
| all-purpose flour, divided | 1 cup |
| kosher salt, plus more for seasoning | 2 teaspoons |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| smoked paprika | 1 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dried thyme | 1/2 teaspoon |
| vegetable oil or bacon drippings | 1/4 cup |
| yellow onionshalved and thinly sliced | 3 pounds (about 6 large) |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| celerydiced | 2 stalks |
| chicken broth, preferably homemade | 3 cups |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| fresh parsley (optional) | for garnish |
Pat the chicken pieces thoroughly dry with paper towels. Moisture is the enemy of browning. In a shallow dish, combine 3/4 cup of the flour with the salt, black pepper, paprika, cayenne, and thyme. Stir until the spices are evenly distributed. Dredge each piece of chicken in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess. Set aside on a wire rack while you heat the pan.
Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or deep cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers and a pinch of flour sizzles immediately on contact. Working in batches to avoid crowding, brown the chicken pieces skin-side down first. Listen for an aggressive sizzle. If the pan goes quiet, your heat is too low. Cook until deeply golden, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. The crust should release easily when ready to flip. Transfer browned pieces to a plate. Do not clean the pan.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the sliced onions to the pan in their entirety. Yes, this will seem like far too many onions. The pile will reach the rim. Season with a generous pinch of salt. Stir to coat the onions in the rendered fat and scrape up any browned bits from the chicken. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions collapse and turn soft and golden, about 20 to 25 minutes. They will reduce to roughly one quarter of their original volume. The kitchen will smell of caramelized sweetness.
Push the onions to the sides of the pan and add the garlic and celery to the center. Cook for 1 minute until fragrant. Sprinkle the reserved 1/4 cup flour over the onions and stir constantly for 2 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste. The mixture will look pasty. This is your roux forming within the vegetables themselves.
Pour in the chicken broth gradually, stirring as you go to prevent lumps. Add the bay leaves. Bring to a simmer. The gravy should be the consistency of heavy cream at this point. It will thicken further as it braises. Taste and adjust seasoning. It should taste slightly underseasoned now because the chicken will release some of its salt as it cooks.
Nestle the browned chicken pieces into the gravy, skin-side up. The gravy should come about two-thirds of the way up the chicken. Spoon some onions and liquid over the exposed portions. Reduce heat to low, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and simmer gently for 1 hour. Check occasionally to ensure the liquid is barely bubbling, not rolling. The chicken is done when the meat pulls easily from the bone and the internal temperature reaches 185°F in the thickest part.
Remove the lid and let the chicken rest in the gravy for 10 minutes. The gravy will thicken slightly as it cools. Discard the bay leaves. If the gravy seems too thin, remove the chicken pieces and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes to reduce. Taste one final time for seasoning. Transfer to a deep serving platter, spooning the onion gravy generously over and around the chicken. Scatter fresh parsley over the top and bring to the table with pride.
1 serving (about 350g)
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