
Chef Thomas
A Proper Bacon Sandwich
Back bacon in a hot pan, good white bread, soft salted butter. Ten minutes between waking up and the first bite of something that makes the morning make sense.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Smoked haddock poached in milk until it barely holds together, a soft egg set on top so the yolk breaks into the creamy liquor, and good bread to mop it all up. A cold morning made right.
The smell is what gets you. Smoked haddock in warm milk fills a kitchen the way few other things can: salt, smoke, butter, something faintly sweet from the dairy. It's a January smell. A Saturday morning smell, when the windows are wet with condensation and there's nowhere you need to be for an hour.
This is not a complicated plate of food. It's a piece of good fish, gently poached, with an egg on top. But the simplicity is the point. The milk does two things: it softens the salt of the cure and it becomes the sauce, pale gold and silky from the butter and the fish's own juices. The egg, if you get it right, sits on top like a gift, its yolk ready to break and run into everything beneath it. You mop the lot up with bread. We're only making breakfast.
I come back to this dish when the mornings are dark and cold and the idea of standing at the stove for twenty minutes feels like exactly enough effort. It's the kind of meal I write down in the notebook not because I'll forget the recipe, but because I want to remember the morning. The light through the kitchen window. The steam off the pan. The quiet satisfaction of putting a warm plate in front of someone before the day has properly started.
Quantity
2 pieces, about 180g each
Quantity
300ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
a few
Quantity
a small knob
Quantity
2
Quantity
a splash
Quantity
a few leaves
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| undyed smoked haddock fillet | 2 pieces, about 180g each |
| whole milk | 300ml |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| black peppercorns | a few |
| unsalted butter | a small knob |
| very fresh eggs | 2 |
| white wine vinegar | a splash |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional) | a few leaves |
| good bread | for serving |
Lay the haddock fillets in a wide pan, skin side down. Pour over the milk, it doesn't need to cover them completely, just come halfway up the fish. Drop in the bay leaf, the peppercorns, and the knob of butter. Set the pan over a gentle heat and bring the milk to a bare simmer. You want tiny bubbles at the edges, nothing more. The surface should shiver, not roll. Let the fish poach for six to eight minutes, spooning the milky liquor over the top now and then. It's ready when it flakes easily if you press it with the back of a spoon and the kitchen smells of the sea and warm butter.
While the fish is in the pan, bring a small saucepan of water to a gentle simmer and add the splash of vinegar. Crack each egg into a teacup first. Stir the water to create a slow whirlpool, then slip the egg in from the cup, close to the surface. Leave it alone. Three minutes for a yolk that runs. Four if you want it to hesitate. Lift out with a slotted spoon and rest it briefly on a piece of kitchen paper to drain.
Lift the haddock out of the milk with a fish slice and set each fillet on a warm plate. Spoon a little of the poaching milk over the top, just enough to gloss the fish and pool around it. Set the poached egg on top of the haddock. A few parsley leaves if they're to hand. Bread alongside. Nothing else.
1 serving (about 310g)
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