
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Salmon wrapped in foil with butter, dill, and a squeeze of lemon, baked until the flesh turns pale and yielding. A midweek supper that asks almost nothing and gives back everything.
There's a smell that comes from a foil parcel when you open it at the table. Butter, dill, lemon, and the clean sweetness of good fish, all released in one warm breath. It fills the kitchen in a way that feels disproportionate to the effort involved. Ten minutes of preparation. Twenty minutes in the oven. A midweek supper that asks almost nothing of you and gives back more than it should.
This is the meal I cook when I want to eat well but can't face thinking about it. A piece of salmon, a generous knob of butter, some dill from the garden if it's there, a squeeze of lemon. Wrap it in foil. Put it in the oven. Set the table while it cooks. The parcel does the work, trapping the butter and the steam together so the fish poaches gently in its own small envelope of flavour. You don't need to watch it. You don't need to turn it. You barely need to think about it.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago: salmon, butter, dill, Tuesday. It's been Tuesday's answer more times than I can count. The fish should be good, properly fresh, the kind that smells of the sea rather than the fridge. If the dill is from the garden, so much the better. If it's from a bunch at the supermarket, that works too. We're only making dinner.
Quantity
4, about 150g each
skin on
Quantity
40g
softened
Quantity
1
Quantity
small bunch
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
a splash
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| salmon filletsskin on | 4, about 150g each |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 40g |
| lemon | 1 |
| fresh dill | small bunch |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| dry white wine (optional) | a splash |
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan). Tear off four generous squares of foil, large enough to wrap each fillet with room to spare. Lay the salmon in the centre of each square, skin side down. Dry the surface with kitchen paper first. Wet fish won't take seasoning properly. Season with salt and a few grinds of black pepper.
Put a good knob of butter on top of each fillet. Not a modest sliver. A proper piece that will melt down and around the fish as it cooks. Tear the dill and scatter it over, the soft fronds and the finer stems. Squeeze half the lemon over the four fillets, then slice the other half thinly and tuck a round or two alongside each piece. If you have a bottle of white wine open, a splash into each parcel does no harm. If you don't, leave it. The butter and lemon are enough.
Bring the edges of the foil up and over, folding them together to make loose but sealed parcels. You want them closed, not tight. The fish needs space to steam inside. Set the parcels on a baking tray and put them in the oven for eighteen to twenty minutes. Walk away. Set the table. Make a salad. The parcels will look after themselves.
Take the tray from the oven and let the parcels sit for a minute or two. Open one carefully (the steam is real and it's hot) and press the thickest part of the fish gently with your finger. It should yield, soft and giving, the flesh pale pink and just starting to flake at the edges. If it's still glassy and translucent in the centre, close it up and give it another two minutes. Slide each fillet onto a warm plate, spooning the buttery, dill-scented juices over the top. A scattering of fresh dill if you have more. That's dinner.
1 serving (about 170g)
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