Sierra en Escabeche de Alvarado

Veracruz, the Sotavento coast, Alvarado where the Papaloapan opens into the Gulf. That is where this escabeche lives. Sierra is not a delicate white fish. It is oily, strong, silver-skinned mackerel, the kind of fish that stands up to vinegar instead of disappearing under it.

The women in Alvarado did not perfect escabeche for decoration. They did it because fish arrives by the boat, vinegar keeps it honest, and tomorrow's meal matters as much as today's. You fry the sierra first, then cover it with vinagre de caña, white onion, chile jalapeño, laurel, tomillo, mejorana, oregano mexicano, pimienta gorda, olives, and capers. The jalapeño belongs here by geography as much as flavor; its name points back to Xalapa, in the same state. Cada estado, su propia cocina.

Serve it in lead-free glazed barro from Coatepec or Veracruz talavera, never in raw clay. Vinegar bites what it touches. The fish needs a night in the refrigerator, not because we are being fancy, because the flesh has to drink the escabeche and firm up. If you eat it the minute it is made, you have fried fish with vinegar. Wait until tomorrow and you have sierra en escabeche. Así se hace y punto.