
Chef Dimitra
Cretan Staka me Avga (Στάκα με αυγά)
In Crete, eggs meet staka, sheep's-milk cream warmed until its butter separates, making a breakfast so rich it needs only bread and restraint.
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Sfougato is the thick island omelet of Crete and the Dodecanese, soft with zucchini, herbs, and sour myzithra. Low heat keeps it tender.
Sfougato belongs to the islands, especially Crete and the Dodecanese, where zucchini, eggs, herbs, and sharp fresh cheese become a thick omelet for the table. It is not a thin pan omelet folded in haste. It is baked or cooked slowly, cut into wedges, and eaten warm, room temperature, or the next day from the plate by the stove.
The whole dish rests on the zucchini. Salt it, wait, and squeeze it harder than politeness allows. If the zucchini goes in wet, the eggs cannot hold it and the center turns watery. If it goes in dry, the sfougato sets soft and springy, the way its name promises.
Use sour myzithra if you can find it, xinomyzithra in Crete, because its clean acidity is what keeps the eggs from tasting flat. Feta will feed you, yes, but it makes another thing. Λίγα και καλά: a few things, and good ones.
I write this one down because it is exactly the kind of household dish that disappears first, too ordinary to be honored until no one remembers the right texture. A recipe written down is a recipe saved.
Sfougato takes its name from the Greek word for sponge, a reference to the soft, porous set of eggs when they are cooked gently. Versions are recorded across the Aegean islands, with Crete and the Dodecanese favoring zucchini, local herbs, and fresh sour cheeses such as xinomyzithra or myzithra. Its place is the domestic summer kitchen, when zucchini is abundant and a small amount of cheese can stretch eggs into a full meal.
Quantity
700g
grated on the large holes
Quantity
1 teaspoon
divided
Quantity
6
Quantity
180g
crumbled
Quantity
60g
finely grated
Quantity
4
finely sliced
Quantity
20g
finely chopped
Quantity
15g
finely chopped
Quantity
3 tablespoons
plus more for the pan
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| zucchinigrated on the large holes | 700g |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1 teaspoon |
| large eggs | 6 |
| sour myzithra (xinomyzithra)crumbled | 180g |
| kefalotyri or gravierafinely grated | 60g |
| spring onionsfinely sliced | 4 |
| fresh dillfinely chopped | 20g |
| fresh mint leavesfinely chopped | 15g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilplus more for the pan | 3 tablespoons |
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 30g |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
Put the grated zucchini in a colander, toss with 1/2 teaspoon salt, and leave it for 15 minutes. Squeeze it hard in a clean towel until it gives up its water. This is the step that decides the sfougato: wet zucchini makes a heavy, weeping omelet, while dry zucchini lets the eggs set soft and high.
Heat the oven to 170C. Oil a 24cm round metal tapsi or ovenproof frying pan, then dust the base and sides with the breadcrumbs. They make a quiet crust and help the sfougato lift cleanly.
Beat the eggs in a wide bowl until loose, not foamy. Fold in the squeezed zucchini, sour myzithra, grated cheese, spring onions, dill, mint, olive oil, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir gently. You want the mixture thick with vegetables, not beaten into a batter.
Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and level the top. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the edges are lightly golden and the center is just set when you nudge the pan. Don't chase a dark top. Sfougato should stay tender in the middle.
Let it rest for 10 minutes before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature, with tomato, olives, and bread if you like. The next day it slices neatly for a lunch plate, which is one reason island kitchens kept it close.
1 serving (about 180g)
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