Sformato di Carciofi

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Six 6-ounce ramekins or custard cups
• •Large roasting pan for water bath
• •Food processor
• •Medium saucepan for besciamella
• •Large skillet with lid

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare acidulated water

   Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze in the juice of one lemon half. Drop in the squeezed lemon. This prevents your artichokes from turning black the moment you expose their flesh to air. Have this ready before you touch a single artichoke.

2. 2

   Clean the artichokes

   Working with one artichoke at a time, snap off the tough outer leaves until you reach the pale yellow-green inner leaves. Cut off the top third of the artichoke, where the leaves are still tough. Trim the stem to one inch and peel away its fibrous outer layer. Cut the artichoke in half lengthwise. Using a small spoon, scrape out the fuzzy choke and any purple-tipped inner leaves. Rub all cut surfaces with the remaining lemon half and drop immediately into the acidulated water. Repeat with remaining artichokes.

   You will discard more than half of each artichoke. This is correct. The heart is all that matters, and the heart is worth the waste.
3. 3

   Cook the artichokes

   Drain the artichoke hearts and slice them thin. In a large skillet, melt the 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the sliced artichokes and toss to coat with butter. Season with salt and white pepper. Add the wine and let it bubble until nearly evaporated. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until the artichokes are completely tender and can be mashed with a fork, 20 to 25 minutes. Check occasionally and add a splash of water if the pan becomes dry.

4. 4

   Puree the artichokes

   Transfer the cooked artichokes to a food processor. Pulse until you have a smooth puree. Scrape down the sides. The texture should be fine and uniform, with no fibrous pieces remaining. Set aside to cool slightly.

5. 5

   Make the besciamella

   In a medium saucepan, melt the 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the flour all at once and whisk constantly for 2 minutes. The mixture should bubble gently but not brown. Slowly pour in the warm milk, whisking continuously to prevent lumps. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the nutmeg. Season with salt and white pepper.

   The besciamella must be thick. This is not the pourable sauce you drape over vegetables. It must have body to support the sformato's structure.
6. 6

   Combine the mixture

   In a large bowl, combine the artichoke puree and the besciamella. Stir until completely uniform. Let cool to lukewarm. Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl, then stir them into the artichoke mixture. Fold in the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Taste and adjust seasoning. The mixture should be well seasoned; flavors mute slightly when baked.

7. 7

   Prepare the molds

   Heat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter six 6-ounce ramekins. Add a spoonful of breadcrumbs to each and rotate to coat the bottom and sides completely. Tap out excess crumbs. The coating must be even; bare spots cause sticking. Place a folded kitchen towel in a roasting pan large enough to hold all ramekins.

8. 8

   Fill and bake

   Divide the artichoke mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins, filling them to within half an inch of the rim. Tap each gently on the counter to settle the mixture and release air bubbles. Set the ramekins on the towel in the roasting pan. Transfer to the oven and carefully pour hot water into the pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the sformati are set and golden on top, and a thin knife inserted in the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes.

   The water bath ensures gentle, even cooking. Without it, the edges set before the center, and you get a rubbery ring around a wet middle.
9. 9

   Rest and unmold

   Remove the ramekins from the water bath and let them rest for 10 minutes. Do not skip this step. Run a thin knife around the edge of each sformato. Place a serving plate over the ramekin, invert boldly, and lift away the mold. The sformato should release cleanly, its golden breadcrumb crust now facing up. Serve warm.

Chef Tips

• •White pepper is traditional here because it disappears into the pale custard. Black pepper leaves visible specks. Use whichever you prefer, but know the difference is aesthetic.
• •If fresh artichokes defeat you, use frozen artichoke hearts. Thaw them completely, squeeze out excess water, and proceed from step three. Do not use marinated artichokes from a jar.
• •The sformati can be baked in a single 9-inch round cake pan for a dramatic presentation. Increase baking time to 50 minutes and test for doneness with a knife.
• •A pool of warm butter sauce beneath the unmolded sformato is traditional in Piedmont. Melt butter with a few sage leaves until the butter just begins to brown, then spoon around the base.

Advance Preparation

• •The artichoke puree can be made one day ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before combining with the besciamella.
• •The besciamella can be made several hours ahead. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming.
• •The unbaked sformati can be assembled in their ramekins up to 4 hours ahead. Refrigerate, then add 5 to 10 minutes to the baking time.
• •Baked sformati can be held in their ramekins in a warm oven (200°F) for up to 30 minutes before unmolding.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 190g)