Serranito Sevillano

The serranito is Sevillian, and it is a bocadillo with manners: thin pork loin cooked on the plancha, jamón serrano, a fried green Italian pepper, tomato, and good bread that can hold the juices without going soft in your hands. This is Andalucía by way of Seville's bars and home kitchens, quick, direct, and better than it has any right to be when the parts are good.

The method that decides it is the pepper. Fry it first in olive oil until the skin blisters and the flesh goes sweet and soft, then use that same oil to cook the pork. That green, slightly smoky oil is what ties the sandwich together. Cook the pork quickly and don't bully it; thin loin goes dry if you turn your back on it.

If you can't find jamón serrano where you are, use a good dry-cured ham, prosciutto at a pinch, and use a little less because it can be sweeter and softer. For the pepper, a Cubanelle or Anaheim gets you close, though the flavor will be milder. No hace falta haber pisado España. You need crusty bread, a hot pan, and the sense not to add cheese or sauces until it becomes some other sandwich. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.