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Scroccadenti

Scroccadenti

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The twice-baked almond cookies of the Emilian hills, honest about their intention from the name alone. You will not eat these dry unless you have teeth of iron.

Pastries & Cookies
Italian, Emilian
Comfort Food
Make Ahead
25 min
Active Time
50 min cook1 hr 15 min total
YieldAbout 36 cookies

The name tells you everything. Scroccadenti means 'tooth-crackers,' and the mountain people of the Emilian Apennines do not exaggerate. These are cookies meant to be dipped, softened in sweet wine or strong coffee until they yield just enough to eat without incident. To bite into one straight from the tin is to understand why Italians named them so.

These belong to the tradition of twice-baked cookies that stretches across Italy: biscotti in Tuscany, cantucci in Prato, and here in the Apennine villages of Emilia, scroccadenti. The method is the same everywhere because it works. You bake the dough in logs, slice them while warm, then bake the slices again until they are dry clear through. The result keeps for weeks in a tin, which mattered when village women baked once and made it last.

What distinguishes the Emilian version is restraint. No chocolate. No dried fruit. Just flour, eggs, sugar, almonds, and a whisper of lemon. The almonds are left whole, skin on, because that is how they have always been made. Refinement is not the point. Durability and honest flavor are.

Scroccadenti emerged in the mountain villages of the Emilian Apennines, where twice-baked cookies solved the practical problem of preservation before refrigeration. The name, meaning 'tooth-crackers,' dates to at least the 19th century and reflects the characteristic hardness that allows these cookies to keep for weeks. They remain a specialty of the province of Modena and the hills above Bologna.

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Ingredients

all-purpose flour

Quantity

300 grams (2 1/4 cups)

granulated sugar

Quantity

200 grams (1 cup)

whole almonds

Quantity

200 grams (1 1/2 cups)

skin on

large eggs

Quantity

3

baking powder

Quantity

1 teaspoon

lemon

Quantity

1

finely grated zest

fine sea salt

Quantity

1/4 teaspoon

anise seeds (optional)

Quantity

1 tablespoon

Equipment Needed

  • Large baking sheet
  • Parchment paper
  • Sharp serrated knife
  • Wire cooling rack

Instructions

  1. 1

    Prepare the oven and pan

    Position a rack in the center of your oven and heat to 350°F (175°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Have a second sheet ready for the second bake.

  2. 2

    Mix the dry ingredients

    In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, lemon zest, and anise seeds if using. Add the whole almonds and toss to distribute them evenly through the flour. The almonds stay whole. Do not chop them.

  3. 3

    Add the eggs

    Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl, then pour them into the flour mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon until a stiff, shaggy dough forms. Turn it onto a clean surface and knead briefly, no more than a minute, until the dough comes together. It will be dense and slightly sticky. This is correct.

    If the dough refuses to hold together, wet your hands slightly and continue kneading. Do not add more liquid to the bowl.
  4. 4

    Shape the logs

    Divide the dough in half. Roll each piece into a log about 12 inches long and 2 inches wide. The logs should be slightly flattened on top, not round. Place them on the prepared baking sheet, leaving at least 3 inches between them. They will spread.

  5. 5

    First bake

    Bake until the logs are golden brown and firm to the touch, 25 to 30 minutes. A crack down the center is normal and expected. Remove from the oven and let cool on the pan for exactly 10 minutes. The logs must be cool enough to handle but still warm enough to slice cleanly. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F (160°C).

  6. 6

    Slice the biscotti

    Transfer the logs to a cutting board. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut on the diagonal into slices about 3/4 inch thick. Work with confidence. A hesitant cut crumbles the cookie. You will have about 18 slices per log.

    If the almonds resist the knife, angle your blade to cut between them rather than through them. The almonds should remain whole in the finished cookie.
  7. 7

    Second bake

    Arrange the slices cut side down on baking sheets. Bake for 10 minutes, then flip each cookie and bake another 10 minutes. The cookies should be dry, golden on both faces, and firm throughout. They will harden further as they cool.

  8. 8

    Cool completely

    Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely. They will be very hard. This is not a mistake. Store in an airtight tin at room temperature. They keep for three weeks easily, longer if you can resist them.

Chef Tips

  • Keep the almond skins on. Village women never bothered to blanch them, and the skins add a slight bitterness that balances the sweetness. Blanched almonds create a blander cookie.
  • The anise seeds are traditional in some Emilian villages, absent in others. Both versions are correct. Use them if you favor the flavor, omit them if you do not.
  • These are meant for dipping. Serve them with Albana passito, the sweet wine of Romagna, or with strong espresso. Vin santo works equally well. The liquid softens them just enough to eat without risk to your teeth.
  • Do not overbake the second time. You want them dry, not dark. Golden brown, not tan. The color deepens as they cool.

Advance Preparation

  • Scroccadenti keep for three weeks or more in an airtight tin at room temperature. They do not soften. They were designed to last.
  • The dough can be shaped into logs, wrapped tightly in plastic, and refrigerated for up to two days before the first bake. Let the logs sit at room temperature for 20 minutes before baking.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 20g)

Calories
90 calories
Total Fat
3 g
Saturated Fat
1 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
3 g
Cholesterol
16 mg
Sodium
31 mg
Total Carbohydrates
13 g
Dietary Fiber
1 g
Sugars
6 g
Protein
3 g

Note: Chef personas and recipes are created with AI assistance. Cook with care: follow safe food-handling practices, check doneness with a thermometer when needed, and adapt for allergies and your kitchen.

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