
Chef Thomas
A British BLT
Back bacon crisped in a hot pan, a ripe tomato that actually tastes of something, crisp lettuce and real butter on proper toast. A sandwich that earns its place in the notebook.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Soft, golden scrambled eggs spooned over anchovy toast, the kind of late-night savoury that the Victorians understood and we've been foolish enough to forget.
Late January. The kind of evening where the cold gets into the kitchen through the back door and you want something quick and rich and slightly old-fashioned. Scotch Woodcock is the thing. No woodcock in it, no Scotland either, just soft scrambled eggs on toast spread with Gentleman's Relish. It sounds like nothing. It is, when you get it right, one of the more quietly splendid things you can eat after ten o'clock at night.
The Victorians used to serve it at the end of a long dinner, after the pudding, as a savoury course. A little jolt of salt and richness to close the evening. We lost the habit somewhere along the way, which is a shame. There are few better feelings than putting this in front of someone who has never had it and watching them go quiet for a moment. That particular silence when someone is eating something unexpectedly good.
The whole thing depends on the eggs. Not the recipe, not the technique, the eggs themselves. Good eggs from good hens, cooked so slowly that the curds barely form, more custard than scramble, spooned over hot toast that's been spread with something salty and deeply savoury. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. This one is short. Trust your nose. Trust the pan. Keep the heat low and your nerve steady.
Quantity
4
Quantity
30g
plus extra for the toast
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 thick slices
Quantity
enough to spread generously
Quantity
4
drained
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
small handful
finely chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large eggs | 4 |
| unsalted butterplus extra for the toast | 30g |
| double cream | 2 tablespoons |
| good bread | 2 thick slices |
| Gentleman's Relish or anchovy paste | enough to spread generously |
| anchovy fillets in oildrained | 4 |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| white pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)finely chopped | small handful |
Toast the bread properly. Not pale and half-hearted, but golden and firm enough to hold what's coming. Butter it while it's hot, then spread a thin layer of Gentleman's Relish or anchovy paste over each slice. Not thick. This stuff is potent. You want a hum of salt and fish, not a shout. Set the toast on warm plates and keep it somewhere gentle while you deal with the eggs.
Crack the eggs into a bowl and beat them lightly with a fork. Don't overwork them. You want the whites and yolks just combined, not frothy. Melt the butter in a small, heavy pan over the lowest heat you can manage. Pour in the eggs. Now: patience. Stir slowly with a wooden spoon, pulling the curds gently from the edges to the centre. This isn't a scramble you can rush. If the heat is right, it takes five or six minutes for the eggs to start setting into soft, creamy folds. If it happens in two minutes, the heat is too high.
When the eggs are soft and barely set, still wetter than you think they should be, take the pan off the heat. Stir in the cream. It stops the cooking and gives the eggs a loose, silky quality that hardens into something disappointing if you leave it on the heat too long. Season carefully. The anchovy paste on the toast is already salty, so taste before you add salt. A grinding of white pepper. The eggs should look like golden silk, just holding together, somewhere between a sauce and a solid.
Spoon the eggs over the prepared toast in generous, soft folds. Lay two anchovy fillets over each portion in a cross, or however they fall. A scattering of parsley if you like, though it doesn't need it. Serve immediately. This is not a dish that waits. The toast should still be warm, the eggs still barely set, and there should be someone at the table ready to eat it the moment it arrives.
1 serving (about 175g)
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